A very unpretentious, authentic and straightforward pub and something of a Prague institution, U…read moreČerného Vola (the Black Bull) was bought up by its patrons to ensure it was not redeveloped into just another anonymous, trendy bar.
The pub is situated a few minutes' walk from the castle and cathedral at the top of the hill in Hradčany, just opposite the Loreto church. It's easy to find as the exterior has impressive baroque murals. Inside, it's rather plainer, with painted walls, simple, dark wooden benches and a tiled floor.
Although it's location inevitably means that it's full of tourists, it makes few concessions to them: this is essentially a beer bar, and the main draw is its excellent Velkopopvicky Kozel beer, in light (tmavé) and dark (světly) variants, as well as Pilsner Urquell, all served in 0.5l glasses. They serve a limited range of hearty Czech snacks, including some vegetarian items (various forms of cheese).
The staff are efficient and workmanlike rather than especially friendly; expect a hard stare if you just have one beer! Locals tend to sit at the front, with visitors at the back. However, the old-fashioned feel means that it is one place you really ought to try is you're in the area, and it makes a great antidote to the touristy crush of the castle.
If it's open, stroll afterwards to the Loreto church, one of Prague's most over-the-top Baroque creations and containing the body of St Wilgefortis - a few beers to fortify you first may not be a bad idea, in fact!
It's quite a hike up the hill to the Hradčany area, but trams 22 and 23 will take you (via a scenic, circuitous route) to within a few hundred metres, making the climb for you!
