I love Napoli, and Baccalaria made me love it ever more. (If you must make a choice, skip Roma and go to Napoli, I mean that.) As with all of Napoli, in the afternoon you walk the sleepy streets with most restaurants shuttered, thinking there is nothing close, but then they come alive under raised shutters and you are surrounded with more than you could ever hope to see, smell, eat, and love. The food at Baccalaria is magnificent: I've had squid all over Europe, and theirs is the best I've ever had; one of my children who usually won't eat cod at all couldn't get enough of it here. The staff is exceptional, particularly in their attentiveness to allergies (peanuts and sesame), and when lending a sympathetic ear to a family faced with a taxi strike the next day that could lead them to a long, long walk to the airport (we managed to squeeze onto the Alibus, but grazie mille for all of your advice!). They serve local wine with a distinctive character all its own. When my children could not decide on their dessert, they were simply invited inside to see the fresh choices for themselves. After a horrendous day journeying back from Paestum, diverted 3 times by a train breakdown, we almost grabbed a pizza and stayed in the hotel for the night, but we found Baccalaria and couldn't have had a better last meal in the finest city in Italia. Grazie! read more