Had dinner at a place in the old city of Elne called Au Remp'Arts. Already four tables full when I arrived soon after they opened at 7pm, and the food that's been delivered so far looks great. I ordered a small bottle of Collioure red and three entrees instead of the set menu - foi gras, anchovies and the charcuterie plate. It must be a night for good soundtracks as they were playing a cover of Leonard Cohen's Hallelujah when I sat down. The anchovies arrived first. The filets were alternated with slices of red pepper on the plate, covered by slivers of onion. Half a boiled egg, a slice of cucumber, some tomato, and a little bowl of very light aeoli completed the course. I tried the various ingredients alone and in combinations and everything worked - a delightful dish, delicious, well balanced and refreshing. The charcuterie was next; Jamon served on a thin slice of toast smeared with a tasty relish, salami, lomo, black pudding, some sliced sausage, terrine, and a pile of green salad in the middle of the plate just in case for some reason you get sick of meat. I was already more than full by now with the foi gras yet to come. I was about to ask if I could cancel it when it arrived. Lucky they beat me to it as this was another winner. The pâté was very light, not overly rich as some tend to be, and served with an onion jam which worked a treat. There was also a slice of whole seared liver on the plate and some dried apricots, which worked really well with the fois gras. Now I was completely stuffed, and I hadn't even considered dessert. In fact, I couldn't - it would be like the restaurant scene in Monte Python's "Meaning of Life" climaxing with me exploding over the other patrons. Then the waiter bought the dessert menu and I crumbled - how can you say no to nougat ice cream covered in Chantilly cream? I certainly couldn't. There was a small dog wandering around the restaurant and I considered palming some of it off on him, but honestly this was too good to share. This place is good. Really, really good. I think I might be back tomorrow. read more

Au Remp'Arts in Elne is a fabulous traditional French restaurant which is really well evaluated on some other sites. My wife and I chose to go there today with my Mother for a lunchtime treat. It was a great decision. There is seating indoors but it is much better to sit in the courtyard under the canopy of climbing plants. It is well screened from the car park outside and has a lovely atmosphere. The staff were very welcoming and we chose the lunchtime "formule" or set menu. 3 courses for 16 Euros. The starter was a choice of tomato and mozzarella salad or ham and fromage frais with herbs and salad. Both were beautifully presented and, of course, fabulously fresh and colourful. Main course was a choice of duck fillets with honey dressing or swordfish steaks with Banyuls sauce. Both came with a potato based "cake" and a courgette filled with a lovely mixture of vegetables. Desserts followed - a choice of chocolate mousse, tiramisu, an ice cream-based sundae with Chantilly cream or a banana and cream creation. I had the chocolate mousse which was simple and rich without being sickly. My wife and Mother had the sundae and tiramisu respectively, and both thought they were great. The service was fabulous and the atmosphere wonderful. We arrived just after the place opened at midday and it quickly filled up (mostly French clientele) until there was a queue. I guess there must have been seating for about 40 or 50 people and there is plenty of competition in the area so it is easy to see the restaurant has a great reputation. It is definitely worth travelling to Elne to visit Au Remp'Arts. Elne is a lovely town and the food, service atmosphere and value of Au Remp'Arts make it an experience not to be missed. Highly recommended. read more