Assam Indian Kitchen is probably the only non-chain restaurant in all of Van Nuys to stay open until 12am every day except Tuesday when it's closed. This is a godsend for night owls who want to dine late. There is a feeling that you are in a new version of "The Night Hawk" by Edward Hopper where single diners sit at a diner very late at night passively waiting for what no one knows.
The other more important reason to come is the kind, quietly hospitable waiter who took my order. He will ask how piquant you want the curries. I chose a step up from mild, and for me, it had enough of a kick. Much of the food seems cooked to order so the food comes out hot and fresh off the stove.
Assam is a state in Northeast India north of the nation of Bangladesh. It's famous for its Assam tea found even in English Breakfast and Irish Breakfast teas.
0) Chutney:
a. Mint is puréed in a watery solution that is very subtle.
b. Mango Is thick like a confiture/jam. Very pleasantly sweet with chopped fruit in a viscous, sugary liquid that may have a touch of vinegar to enliven the fruitiness.
c) Cilantro-Mint: Watery purée with notes of green herbals.
1. Vegan Samosa: a very crisp wrapper perhaps made from a combination of rice & wheat flour contrasts against pleasantly starchy potato flavoured with a touch of aromatic Garam Masala spice blend.
Coming out piping hot, great textual contrast between crispy & plush. Excellent must have Samosa. I originally ordered the beef Samosa, but they had run out, and I'm glad they did.
2) Pasanda Curry is made from finely ground nuts like possibly almonds, green herbs, curry powder, and perhaps yogurt for a creamy consistency. It had enough of a chile piquancy to heat up my tongue to stimulate the taste buds.
Generous portion of shrimp added a sweet sea minerality and fibrous meatiness that went well. Bit of corn starch to thicken the smooth sauce. Rather subtle, sophisticated dish
3) Coconut Curry definitely has coconut milk fragrance, & flavour that thickens the curry. Also woody, distinct sweetness that seems to come from nutmeg. The chunks of lamb are well done, meaty with a chaw. No hint of that lamb gaminess.
4) Rogan Josh: Very refreshing, light curry with grilled onion, tomato, bell pepper, garlic that are flash sautéed to bring out dulcet tone of the vegetables. Shrimp with marine scented, fibrous meatiness kept this dish subtle and ethereal.
This is the kind of delicate curry that is rarely found in Los Angeles. Definitely a must get if heavy handed cooking is to be avoided.
5) Methi Curry: Fenugreek scented stewed thick chunks of lamb braised in a dark brown, heavy sauce. Meat eaters will like this for its emphasized meaty textures.
6) Korma: Lightly, creamy, coconut milk, sweet, smooth curry with a hint of ginger, coriander, puréed cashew to add a "cashew butter" nuttiness. Slightly gamey lamb went well.
7) Yellow Curry: May have a bit of Garam Masala, turmeric for a touch of woody earthiness. Mild and semi sweet. Breast meat chicken.
8) Paswari Naan: Stuffed with a sweet paste of coconut, almond, and raisin baked in Naan flat bread. Great to dip pieces of this bread into Methi Curry gravy. Or Paswari can be eaten as a dessert with Cumin scented Chai.
1-7a) Basmati Rice accompanies all currys. Nutty with dry texture, lightly friable, al dente. This rice is made to go with savory, multi-spiced, complex South Asian food as a textural contrast and palate neutral relief from all the complex spice mixtures.
Quiet late night dining along with meditative, musical South Asian chanting that is contemplative and introspective to facilitate mindfulness in order to truly appreciate the food to the fullest. 4+ stars read more