(This is - obviously - written in English from a tourist's perspective. Modify your expectations…read moreaccordingly.)
This was the meal I was looking for. The one I envisaged immediately when my wife suggested traveling to Spain. The one I felt I had to get my hands on, after watching so many food documentaries and reading travelogues about dining in Spain.
Some trips just don't work out that way. I have never had that meal in France, for example. The meal has nothing to do with price, location, or reputation: it's solely about the food. In the case of Spain, my mental picture was fresh seafood, large portions, and varied courses. I was not disappointed.
The setting was straightforward: a large, below-ground hall filled with long, communal wooden benches and tables. The meal was entirely inexpensive: the three-course menu del dia cost just 10.50€. Yet the quality and quantity of the food could have demanded ten times that price.
The first course was simple: melon and ham. This was a meal into itself, with five giant slices of sweet green melon piled high with shaved ham. This arrived with a jug of cider for the table: tart and clean. The second course was a whole broiled fish, cooked head-on with garlic and nuts and served with fries. This was, again, a meal onto itself; the fish (similar to a hake) was succulent, juicy, and flavorful. My wife had a simple minute steak. It, too, was perfect: millimeters thin, yet served medium rare, it was the essence of beef. Dessert was a custard flavored with cinnamon and cardamom, topped with a light cookie.
I will certainly be returning here to sample the rest of the menu (lamb! lentils!). I can say with certainty that this meal alone made this vacation a glorious success.