The thing is Des Moines is not known as a culinary Mecca but it's getting better. The late Anthony Bourdain who is no doubt idolized by many of us is quoted as saying...
"Good food and good eating are about the risks"
All to often it's not the 5 star or the new "hip" small plate restaurants that set the bar for what a truly great meal is but rather it's the Mom and Pops, the hole in the wall, no bullshit joints that truly offer both the risk and the reward.
I'll take an overweight elderly woman wearing a hairnet (think Chris Farley as the lunch lady) or a scruffy, tatted line cook with blood shot eyes who smells of cheap whiskey, cigarettes and strippers over a celebrated chef to prepare my meal any day of the week. Especially breakfast.
Ankeny café is such a place. Pictures of James Dean on the wall, the U-shaped counter surrounded by stools and they only serve breakfast. You're not going to find eggs Benedict, eggs Woodhouse for you Archer fans or the ultimate hangover cure, a Croque-Madame at the Ankeny Cafe. What you will find is old school, world class service from folks who geniuinely seem happy to see you whether you are a regular or not. I am not a regular but I was impressed when obvious regulars would walk in, be greeted by name and asked if they wanted their regular all before they had even made it over to their seats of choice.
I ordered the Country breakfast which consisted of 2 eggs to order, hash browns, chicken fried steak and toast. I choose eggs over easy and white bread because I don't believe in wheat bread and let's be honest, there are few things as delicious in this world as a warm, runny egg yolk.
They even have a vegetarian option for all you pale, pasty, weak blooded folks out there.
I'm an asshole when it comes to eggs and honestly believe no one can cook eggs better then me, not even Nova, god bless her little black heart. Scrambled, poached, basted, or over easy, my egg game is on. In my mind the over easy egg is the bar. If you can perfectly nail an over easy eggs, I'll be your fan for life. Surprisingly though few people can pull it off. One second to short on the flip back and you've got whites that are still a little runny around the yolks which is disgusting and an afront to all things eggalicious. One second to long before the flip back and you start to cook the yolk which is a culinary sin of biblical proportions.
Nova says
"Eggs are delicate. If you can make an egg every which way correctly you can rule the world."
and the crazy broad is right.
So, to put your mind at ease and answer the question that's bugging your right now. Did they get it right?
Almost and I mean by seconds. One little stringy piece of uncooked white egg snot is all that remained. Not enough to make me go Gordon Ramsey on them but enough to make me pull out my pocket torch and finish cooking that tiny part right on the plate. It was as close as anyone has come in a long, long time and close enough that I give em a pass.
The hashbrowns were delicious as was the gravy that partially covered them as it did the chicken fried steak. The chicken fried steak was mediocre. Obviously frozen and processed but any issues were hidden by the gravy. It was good enough that I ate it all.
This is not the best breakfast I've ever had but they score high in service, speed, dive-e-ness and overall the food was pretty tasty. Yes, I'm allowed to make up words and there is nothing you can do about it.
This is one of those places that all the old retired dudes come to. Meet up to talk about Politics, world events and bitch about their wives and ungrateful children. I like this place.
Food alone, I give em 3 stars. Throw in the friendliness of the staff and the parade of characters that come and go,
4 stars. read more