If you've flown into Linate and are desperate for Italian grub, then this is the place to go, just…read morea short hop from the airport. I arrived by road courtesy of a business friend, who said he ate there 4 or 5 times a week. A good enough recommendation, coming from a hard-nosed Milanese.
It is a converted 'Castello', a family home to the Borromeo clan since the 15th Century. Basically a Manor House with fortifications, it passed into the hands of the Temporali family in 1932 and they have been looking after the restaurant since then.
The menu is a roll call of famous Lombardian dishes: home-made salamis, Milanese risotto, tagliolini, gnocchi, braised game with polenta, suckling pig, veal chop and other charcoal grills, semifreddo, fresh fruit. The wine list runs to over 100 different bottles.
We sat in the bowered garden, sheltering from the 35-degree heat that was Milan last week. The service was unfailingly cheerful and friendly, the food as good as you'll get. The astonishing thing was that the bill for a 3-course meal with wine came out around 30 euros a head. The same thing in London would set you back a minimum of £70 ph.
