Moved from incorrect placement under Vancouver City Hall (12-23-13)
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What a discovery: Vancity ... Vahn-koo-vair (FR) ... YVR.
I first saw it on a drizzly June day trip when visiting Seattle from L.A. It was beautiful, but more low key than today's Vancouver. Not knowing I would ever hang my hat in Seattle, I forgot about the city. I then became reacquainted with it on a glorious summer day, having driven up with a friend. The drive to Vancouver is etched in my mind. I remember being naive about the border crossing in the pre-passport era, and that naivete was good. It was routine and easy. Having an edge makes the crossing tougher. As you approach on CA 99, essentially a 2 lane continuation of I-5, it goes through farmland and you see the tops of high rise condos, probably over in Surrey and Burnaby, over these low evergreen studded hills in the foreground. However, upon completing the broad arc of CA 99 and passing under the Massey Tunnel, Vancouver's majesty, showcased by its skyline, its topography, and its backdrop, makes itself perfectly clear and you know you are somewhere unique.
In just 44 miles from Bellingham WA, you are clearly in an international destination. The accent has changed, words are spelled in U.K. English, you have to convert kilometers and temperatures in your head, homes and condo towers have a slightly different look, the interpersonal vibe is different, there are multiple layers of taxes on your restaurant and hotel bills, and more.
New Millennium Vancouver is a world-class city. While the U.S. has various major port cities on the Pacific, this is Canada's only major presence on its west coast and west of the Canadian Rockies. It's an interesting blend of culture, commerce, and natural beauty. Whether downtown or elsewhere in the metro, the sophistication is apparent in its shopping venues, office towers, museums, and the University of British Columbia. In terms of culture, Vancouver has always been a magnet for immigrants and transplants from Canada. There doesn't seem to be a "you shouldn't be here" vibe, and the city seems to have gotten over the circa 1997 inflow of money from Hong Kong in which neighborhoods of single-story homes saw homes razed to build symmetrical 2-story McMansions with the obligatory lions on each side of the entry. Prior to this, different communities of Europeans had their enclaves, mostly in the city's more working class eastern and southern suburbs, and most of the peoples of Europe were represented. Today, many of those people have died, and their offspring are Vancouverites and Canadians to the bone. Old money Anglos have always dominated the chunk of Vancouver that is an almost rectangular peninsula west of Oak, such as Point Grey and areas near UBC, with stunning views or forested streets. They also tend to live on the North Shore, which is technically not Vancouver. However, all of this is changing.
I had to laugh upon this last visit to YVR. It is British Columbia for a reason. I believe the old Canadian flag had the Union Jack somewhere on it. While T-O has unmistakably British sounding streets like King and Queen, the naming of streets in Vancouver's center makes one think they are sitting at a pow-wow of mucky-mucks at Big Ben. Think Howe, Seymour, Robson, Denman, Nelson, Davie, Hastings, Thurlow, Burrard, and Smithe.
In terms of weather, it is much like Seattle, except about 2F cooler. The best time to go is in summer, when it is in the low to mid 80sF and dry. However, Vancity is a great destination any time. I would say the top 10 attractions are: 1) Stanley Park, 2) Granville Island, 3) Queen Elizabeth Park, 4) Canada Place/Gastown/a SeaBus ride, 5) points of learning such as Science Center and the Anthropology Museum at UBC, among others, 6) Chinatown, 7) trendy Kitsilano and its Jericho and Spanish Banks beaches, 8) funky Commercial Drive, 9) viewing mansions in Point Grey or near the University Endowment Lands, and 10) exploring the different flavors of downtown - Robson St. (high end shopping), Davie Village (eclectic and liberal), Yaletown (yuppified), and Georgia St. (business towers and Hotel Vancouver).
Does Vancouver have problems? Yes. There is a drug infested zone around Hastings and Main, and in both directions from there. Somewhere in that area, there is a place known as "Needle Park." There is poverty and angst along and near East Hastings. Living well has become expensive, being a coveted destination, which has pushed people out to far suburbs or over to the province of Alberta. Some immigrants lament that they feel a little out of place vis-a-vis the local social conventions, but appreciate that Vancouver has opened a door for them. Lastly, some Eastern Canadians from Ontario, Quebec, and the Maritimes say that the vibe isn't like back home and some don't stay. Doesn't that sound like the U.S., too, though?
Anyone I've ever shown around Vancouver loves it. read more