I visited Matera for all of the typical touristy reasons: the stunning views, the unique culture, and the troglodyte cave-dweller experience.
But I stayed for Van Gogh Pizzeria.
After hiking around the city for several hours, I was exhausted and starving. Being the savvy world traveler that I am, I determined to find the BEST dining experience Matera has to offer. Surprisingly, I found exactly that in the first open restaurant my tired feet stumbled upon. What luck!
I knew I was in for a treat when I saw the enticing, mouth-watering JPEGs of the menu posted in front of the pizzeria. So, without further ado, I ducked through the automated glass door and found myself transported into a world of culinary excellence.
The jovial waiter, Giuseppe, led us into a charming dining room which retained the authentic appearance of an Apple Store. He regaled me with delightful stories from the historic restaurant's past, such as the painter Van Gogh's pilgrimage to the pizzeria for which the trattoria is now named. This place felt far holier than the medieval cave churches I had wasted all morning in!
Making a decision was difficult as the menu had a different pizza variety for every resident of Matera. After settling on what the Materans call a "Margherita," I settled in to watch the poor tourists beyond the spotless glass wall unknowingly walk past this national treasure. Poor fools.
Giuseppe brought me some delightfully dry crackers to snack on until my pizza came. And mamma mia! What a pizza! The dough was wonderfully heavy and chewy, while the seasoning was subtle enough to keep me guessing as to what I was eating. It reminded me of the Italian food my grandmother made back in Alabama. Truly this is the best pizza in Italy! I can see why Van Gogh came all the way from Canada to eat here.
One word of warning for less adventurous travelers: don't expect a traditional, Americanized transaction process. After waiting for Giuseppe to return for half an hour, I discovered that Van Gogh accepts payment in the traditional Materan fashion: at the cash register by the door. I was hardly upset at being given the opportunity to learn about this unique cultural custom.
If you come to Matera skip the frescoes, the vistas, the caves, and the history. Do yourself a favor and make a beeline for Van Gogh, the best pizzeria in the world! read more