Here it is: the dividing line between central California and southern California. It alternates…read morebetween fun, scenic, historic, dramatic, and scary.
Hmm, scary? Yes, the northern part is scary. Really, the northern part is what kept the two Californias separate for so long. There are no foothills here. Within five miles, I-5 goes from elevation 100 to elevation 4,000. Far too steep for a railroad, and 100 years ago, nearly too steep for an automobile road. It was an engineering marvel to build a 2-lane road up this steep mountain. Two widenings later, it's now an 8-lane freeway. But going south, the far right lane slows 18-wheelers down to 20 mph and causes older cars to overheat. Going north, there are two runaway truck ramps that are heavily used, and when I owned a BMW, it was so easy to get it up to 100 because the road is so steep. CalTrans has many big signs warning of the 6% 5-mile grade for good reason.
History buffs will find it easy to find the old road in many places. One volunteer organization is working to reopen the Ridge Route between the Templin Highway and 138. Road #2, the 4-lane US99, is mostly under I-5 now, but there are places where you can drive on 99 just as you could in the 1950s.
Fun can be those swoops the freeway takes near Pyramid Lake. And there's that one part just outside Castaic where 99 is now the 4 northbound lanes . . . and the southbound lanes switch sides and go down the left side of Violin Canyon, British style (99 south was too steep for trucks).
Technically, the Grapevine is only the northernmost five miles, and the settlement at the bottom is called Grapevine. But the entire stretch from Grapevine to Castaic is popularly called "the Grapevine" all the way.
Stops include the Hungry Valley off-road area, Pyramid Lake, the old restaurant in Gorman, Fort Tejon, and the rest area near Tejon Pass.
Now for the dramatic part: when you leave Castaic driving north, that long drive up says "goodbye, SoCal". And driving south from Bakersfield, the mountains loom in front of you for 15 dry miles, signalling the end of the Central Valley. Entering the Central Valley, the hills ahead of you disappear and all you see is the huge, long expanse of desert that will soon become orchards, welcoming you to the most productive farmland in the world. Entering Castaic is uneventful, but several miles later, when there are four freeways stacked on top of each other, you KNOW you're in LA.
So that's it. The Grapevine, a freeway for those who say that the journey is as important as the destination.