Came on a rainy Saturday (last weekend) and there was a little regular crowd gathering to watch a Liverpool v Chelsea game. By a little crowd I mean probably 5 punters. The pub is too small and refined to be what you call a regular sports pub with the stereotypical roaring TV noise and game machines, but then again this is Highgate and it does represent its regulars, who are clearly the quiet sort. A few couples with their babies came for a quiet lunch and the space is sufficient to accommodate the prams.
The interior has the vintage-reclaimed-chic thing going on, mishmash of found chairs and uncomfortable wooden benches. Some of the tables were awkwardly small because they were clearly vintage study desks. I'm not really a fan of those, they're not particularly comfortable. There's a lovely moose horn chandelier hanging in the front.
Some very artfully chosen beers and ciders were on tap and I trust they were good - my boyfriend had an oatmeal stout and it was pleasantly fruity. I had a ginger beer, which was poured into a glass - I would much have preferred the bottle and the glass...
The main purpose of the visit was to sample the food of Bell & Brisket. I had the ale braised brisket in a box with a selection of pickles and chips. When it arrived it looked amazing, and the chili relish was especially good. Shame there wasn't more of that. The brisket was tasty and reasonably portioned, the meat was delicious, soft, slow cooked and flavourful.
The food left me confused. It looked beautifully composed, with the pickles remarkably drained and arranged on one side, chips on the other, and for added height, the brisket on the top. Perhaps it was intended to be some kind of low-carb woman menu option. If it was meant to be so then it raises the question of why anybody wants the chips along with it to begin with. The beef rests on its bed of fries but there is no meaty juices or gravy to speak of to make the entire affair a delicious mess. For that reason it was literally eating pieces of beef and then a chip or two. There was a lemony mayonnaise and ketchup to go with the chips, but having had the box served this way I had hoped the chips had some extra flavour.
What I would have liked (and hope will happen) - gravy or braising juices, and some of the English mustard offered on the bagels, or at least a good spicy one full of popping little mustard seeds.
I think I picked the dud on the menu - fat is flavour and my order didn't have cheese. If I do return, and I will update this review when I do, I'll be sure to go for the bagel or black rye sandwiches or the filthy fries. read more