Just a few months late...
Of course, being an avid climber and finding the Castle a conveniently short walk away from me, I am a bit biased. But I'm also a bit spoilt with 4+ rock gyms back home, not to mention Sender One. With that said, I've experienced a variety of climbing gyms, the best to the worst, and the Castle is indeed fit for royalty.
The concept is obviously cool and I've taken quite a few pics to show off to friends, haha. A "rockclimbing castle" can come off sounding a bit gimmicky, but quality and professionalism abound here.
PLUS: This is a huge three floor space, with several offerings and a lot of variety. It covers all the basic types of climbing nicely (as mentioned in other reviews), has a seemingly endless amount of courses, hosts competitions, organises group events, sells equipment, and even has a cafe serving up freshly grown greens from the outdoor garden in the back (which you can check out).
MINUS: In trying to do it all, the layout is quite confusing. The women's change rooms are on the first floor while men's are on the second. The lead climbing is in the same space as the cafe (which has no rubbish bins), with some random bouldering elements thrown in. The space designated for stretching is awkwardly amongst lockers and traversing practice. I explored this whole space and still could not for the life of me find the "gym space" staff at the counter mentioned to me.
PLUS: There is quite a bit of space devoted to bouldering (including sections for traversing and feature climbing) scattered throughout the three floors. Hundreds of harness free routes along with a wide range of difficulty. This is just excellent. Too often I see bouldering left to the wayside in larger gyms.
MINUS: Again, in regards to my hunt for the mysterious "gym space," the Castle doesn't have weights, other strength building equipment, or any cardio machines. This is a huge minus for me as I prefer a multi-faceted work out to cap off my usual gym routine.
PLUS: They do have a campus board AND a system board. And even a finger board. Definitely necessary if you're looking to get serious about climbing and take it to the next level. Don't overlook these tools!
MINUS: I found the grading system a bit confusing as routes marked more difficult than others were quite easy, and vice versa. Very odd. Perhaps this is a "lost in translation" sort of deal happening with the conversion.
PLUS: They have a "buddy system" for climbers who come alone but would like to do some top-roping. Obviously, your chances of finding a partner still depend on several other factors, but they've made it easier for single climbers like me.
MINUS: I saw a lot of unsafe belaying practices here. Staff didn't seem too strict on the type of device, as you can use anything from a Gri-gri to just a standard ATC (called something else here? I asked about this equipment over the phone and got a confused response). But perhaps this makes it more difficult to ensure that climbers know basic safety and belay methods. Hmmm. Makes me a bit uncomfortable since you need to have a really high level of trust for your belayer, I think.
PLUS: The price is right. Only £7 for students if you go during off-peak hours. This rate is unbelievable.
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To summarise, this is a huuuge facility with copious options to satisfy a wide range of climbers, and is relatively successful in its endeavours. The environment is friendly and energetic, and the attention given to bouldering and traversing skills makes this a great spot if you'd like to climb but are coming solo. Also a fantastic place to entertain your visiting friends! read more