The Thames Path covers a total of 184 miles from the source of the river in the Cotswolds to the Thames Barrier at Greenwich. If you are in London and fancy a bit of a tramp I'd suggest doing one of the "inner city" stretches. Not only do you get the benefits of a good stretch of the legs but you'll take in some stunning scenery, get the opportunity to quench your thirst at some of London's finest public houses and with luck you will always find something new to make you marvel at this great city of ours.
Saturday continued the unseasonably mild start to November we have been having so B and me grabbed the light jackets and jumped on the 177 for the 10 minute trip up to Greenwich for the start of our walk along a stretch of the Thames Path back to London Bridge. It's a distance of circa 8 miles of nice easy walking so is ideal for an afternoon or morning stroll. From Greenwich you have the choice of following the North or South bank of the Thames into town and on this occasion we walked on the South bank based on our choice of lunch destination.
From Greenwich Church Street you take Creek Road and just follow the signs which are plentiful and easy to spot all the way to London Bridge - no need for a map or directions as you are well guided by the way marks at every twist and turn of the walk.
The early part of the walk involves a fair bit of walking through streets away from the river and is possibly a bit urban for some tastes, although I find the meander through Deptford fascinating. It takes in some areas I would never normally have the opportunity to see at close hand and is a great contrast with the latter part of the walk. We stopped off for a cheeky pint at The Dog and Bell in Prince Street, Deptford which is lovely cosy old-school pub in the back streets. On this occasion it had a fine a fine selection of six very reasonably priced and well-kept cask ales. My pint of Top Totty was crisp and golden and went down very well.
However, before too long you're back by the river and heading towards the South Dock, which is a huge marina and is home to a fascinating array of boats of all shapes and sizes. Well worth spending some time having a wander around.
Further on up the path there are some great close-up views across the river to Canary Warf and you will shortly find yourself in the wonderful space that is the Surrey Docks Farm, a little 2 acre oasis in the beating heart of the beast. It's home to a vast array of herbage, all manner of vegetables and many different types of pigs, goats and chickens. They sell their own meat and veg on site which is very tasty and reasonably priced.
The Farm is also home to the Frizzante cafe which is worth a visit in its own right, but be warned it's very popular and pretty small. We rolled in about 1pm and it was heaving (largely with farm volunteers) but fortunately the weather was still pretty mild, although it was getting increasingly brisk as the day wore on, so we were more than happy to grab one of the few remaining empty outside tables. They have a lovely well-edited menu here with some great breakfast choices along with some very toothsome pasta and casserole dishes. Be sure to check out the blackboard for the daily specials.
We had the slow cooked ragu of their own pork with home made papardelle which was delicious. Full-flavoured meat which had been cooked to within an inch of its life and just melted in the mouth. The pasta was beautifully prepared and was a joy to eat. Great walking food, and we both agreed we will be doing this little stroll again purely with the objective of coming to Frizzante for a proper gut-busting lunch.
From here on in you will be mainly walking riverside, ducking back on a few occasions to the road behind some of the buildings built hard onto the river front. It's an interesting mix of the old and the new with some stunning old wharfs and buildings which have been converted into flats and offices. As you near town you can just smell the money in the air!!
The views are breath-taking along the river, picture-postcard stuff on a sunny autumn day. It's the London skyline we all know and love, but close at hand. If you're new to town, or are just visiting, this final mile or two of the walk is stunning and is a "must do", with all the classic sights set out before you. St Paul's, the Gherkin, Tower Bridge and the work in progress that is the Shard all look amazing from this approach and are a nice visual statement of what it can mean to live in our still-vibrant, sprawling capital city.
As you near the bars and restaurants of Butlers Walk you'll find the number of tourists ramping up and by the time you get to the Design Museum, which is well worth popping in for a visit, you're knee-deep in them and will find yourself wishing for the relative solitude of Deptford!!
We wandered on, at a much reduced pace now due to need to dodge the hordes, until we reached Borough market and The Rake, which was read more