As a Californian and as a foodie (food enthusiast), this is the best diner I've ever been to…read more
Which is funny, because Zic Zac is more than a diner; it's a restaurant, and everything I wish a diner could be. It's not fast food; not IHOP, not a Johnny Rockets, not even a mom-and-pop down-home American diner. It's a cut above all those, while exuding everything those establishments claim or wish to be.
Two main takeaways.
1. There have been three moments in my life when I took a bite of food and immediately had to put everything down, close my eyes, and drop my head as I let the incredible flavor wash through my senses, burrowing through my tongue and setting off what felt like previously un-fired synapses in my brain. The first such moment was the first time I tried my wife's Thanksgiving turkey, the second was eating Jon & Vinny's margherita pizza in Los Angeles, and the third was the first bite of ribeye here at Zic Zac.
2. The 70's American decor could not be more precisely executed, from the salt and pepper shakers and ketchup/mustard squeeze bottles to the perfectly red & chrome barstools, framed Harleys, and Coca-Cola neon sign. But unlike a typical American diner, Zic Zac is spotlessly clean, and every minute (small) detail is elevated to exude a premium atmosphere, while somehow not sacrificing its authenticity in the slightest.
I've been to diners in Florida, Mississippi, Texas, New Mexico, New York, and California (at least), so here's my opinion. You see, a typical American diner isn't necessarily very clean, and the food isn't necessarily very good. At one of those places, you might expect to come in, be told to sit anywhere, maybe get friendly service, and choose food from old, laminated menus. At a typical American diner, you will probably drink rancid coffee and notice the drab, scuffed decor as you wait for your watery eggs and sinewy steak. You go to that kind of place because it's cheap, familiar, and fast.
At Zic Zac, the food is incredible. I had the ribeye, which I have a lot of both at home and at restaurants, including establishments like Morton's, Ruth's Chris, and Fleming's. Zic Zac's ribeye was tender, perfectly medium rare as ordered, with seasoning that was somehow explosive without being overwhelming. (I later learned that the proprietor sources fresh, never frozen Hereford or Red Angus beef exclusively). The herbed butter wedge on top elevated the dish and helped put this steak well into my top 10 of all time.
So I don't see this as a place for a quick, cheap burger off the range and down the hatch. Get ready to sit, stay, chat with friends, drink coffee or anything from the wide-ranging drink menu, and savor your food when it comes to you. If that's what you like from the experience of Spotkanie or Public Fontanny, that's what you'll love about Zic Zac (but with an authentic American decor and atmosphere). Very unique.
Drinks. There's variety and quality. For myself as a whiskey enthusiast, there's anything from Johnnie Walker to Balvenie (I had the Balvenie), along with a similar variety of the usual suspects like gin, rum, etc. Again, this is a cut above what you'd expect to find at a typical American diner.
Service. M is friendly, communicative, and attentive, as is the proprietor (if you get a chance to see him, as he's very hands-on both in the kitchen and with customers)!
A note for the fries: approaching steak-fry size, they're perfectly crispy on the outside, not burned or soggy, without sacrificing the tender potato texture and flavor on the inside. Salt to your taste with either the shaker or the available grinder.
I don't generally write reviews, but every once in a while, a restaurant will knock it out of the park and I just have to recognize it. I applaud the proprietor for his eye for detail, his laser-focus on quality, and for staying true to his vision for the restaurant - as I see it, an unwaveringly authentic (yet somehow unabashedly elevated) diner experience. Even though I planned to mostly eat like a local on this trip, I'll definitely be back.
