Last night our cruise group had dinner here. The report was that Mama had spent all day cooking and I believe it. Victor, who had been our driver to Castelo Rodrigo, skillfully drove us up the winding road to the lottery and even more skillfully drove us down in the dark. We were surprised to encounter cloudy skies and rain in the afternoon but were very fortunate to have no rain driving up or down, though it rained heavily when we were at dinner.
We left the buses and entered the winery, where we were greeted w/ small glasses of Moscatel, smooth and refined, bearing no resemblance to the Skid Row beverage of our youth. A drummer and accordionist welcomed us w/ music, later moving into the dining room to serenade us. There was also bread and maybe some other snacks, but I didn't have them because I was expecting a large dinner. There was a humorous introductory speech and then we moved into the dining room which was set up w/ large tables w/ white folding chairs.
First the appetizers came out, cod fritters that were light and unsalted so Alan had two, two types of sausage and sliced pork. There was bread w/ olive oil. Then there was a salad and a vegetable soup. The main dish was veal w/ cabbage and other vegetables All the dishes were delicious and clearly homemade, but I think my favorite was the veal and vegetables. There was an array of desserts, from pears poached in red wine to flan/creme brûlée to a layer cake to a chocolate cake. I had the pear and the flan and they were excellent. Throughout dinner Luis made humorous commentary. One of them was the story of Bacchus inventing wine and the running punchline was "Oh, my god!", which I heard repeated at lunch today. There was dancing as the evening wore on. In all it was an adventure, culinary and otherwise. When we left Luis kissed me on both cheeks, which was a very sweet farewell. read more