For anyone who supports the continued existence of oddball shops, eccentric publicans and purveyors of queer specialised bric-a-brac, York has long been a must-visit destination.
Partly because of the lack of modern premises that fit the exacting specifications of the usual high street brands, York continues to pulse with shops that sell everything from dainty chintz to gothic flotsam. Best of all, the clustering of these shops on the most quaintly medieval of the city's streets mean that there is huge passing trade that helps them to survive in a way that similar shops driven to the peripheries of bigger cities often fail to do.
Likewise for the bars and drinking holes. Whilst there is a place for a Wetherspoons - or even dismall hellholes such as a Slug and Lettuce - York remains charmingly stuffed with resolute boozers of the old school. Pivni (formerly Pivovar Cafe) bills itself as a "world beer freehouse", and thus immediately caught my eye.
Nestled in a madly tilted and twisted wattle and daub house, there is a small, low-ceilinged bar and a scintillating selection of rarely-seen beers, ales and ciders on tap. North American pale ales get a good showing, but you can also winkle out a Belgian fruit beer, full-on cloudy English cider or crisp continental lagers served in those funny goblets.
The beers on our visit were dispensed by a scouser dressed like the Clash's missing member who was witty, warm and welcoming and happy to dole out tasters to help guide us to the right beer. Music was both discreet in volume and interestingly diverse and a nice backdrop to some experimental boozing and good conversation.
The only potential drawback is on price. These are speciality brews that you won't find anywhere else in the city - possibly not even the county. As such, a pint can set you back upwards of four quid, which is a level which normally sets my dour, spendthrift Yorkshire heart racing. Nontheless, if you're after something a little different to while away an hour or two on a rainy winter's afternoon, this is a splendid and cherishable little institution. read more