I went to Rome for the first time last week and spent three nights at a hotel right by the Piazza…read moredel Popolo. I loved Rome even more than I'd imagined, and was tremendously impressed by the giant piazzas, these vibrant public spaces that you could never build into a newer city, designed for people driving cars.
The Piazza del Popolo was a particularly grand one, with its twin churches and its ancient Egyptian obelisk, already over a thousand years old when it was stolen and brought to Rome in the year 1 BC. We walked through the piazza several times during our stay, and it was striking both for its legitimate strikingness and for its natural incorporation into the day-to-day life of the city.
The square was always lively without being crowded in mid-November, just people hanging out or walking through, enjoying a moment of leisure. The obelisk was set on a foundation with a fountain, of course, and plentiful seating. What a special thing, to sit at the base of something so extraordinary, to check email or eat a sandwich.
We didn't notice many street entertainers, but we did watch a man in colorful clothing dipping a long wand in a vat of soapy water and releasing enormous bubbles to the delight of both adults and children passing by. It made me miss my kids, who would have flipped for that display, and who I hope to bring to Piazza del Popolo one day, to see a public square unlike any they'll ever see at home.