Phantom Ranch was designed by Colter, the lady architect who worked with Harvey to design many of the wonderful buildings along the south rim of the Grand Canyon. Everything in it was brought down by mule or hiker. I marvel over that now when thinking about not only how much is there, but what an amazing presence it has.
I have never experienced anything like Phantom Ranch. I'm not a hiker who is yet of the caliber to handle the Grand Canyon, so I got there by mule, and stayed one wonderful night with my husband. I don't think I've ever experienced a place as peaceful as the bottom of the Grand Canyon, and I don't think I've ever met travelers as friendly as the hikers and fellow mule riders at the bottom. It is an awesome experience in and of itself, but the food and accommodations are not bad either!
They have two dinner options which you have to reserve in advance. We did the steak dinner, which is served family-style, and enjoyed every bit of the steak, cornbread, salad, baked potato, peas, and corn. When your table is done with the main course, they bring out a plate with thick slices of chocolate cake, and you each get one. Everything tasted great, the host was very attentive, and all around us conversation flowed. There is nothing like it. (Vegetarians, don't despair - they do have a vegetarian option in the other meal service.)
We had a private cabin (which she jokingly called the honeymoon suite), and the cabin had a full bed, toilet, and sink. (Showers are a separate cabin.) It had a wall-mounted heater/air conditioning unit, and since we were there in December I can attest that the heater was incredibly efficient and kept us toasty. The bed was a bit stiff, but so were we, and I would challenge a hiker or mule rider to find ANY bed that feels comfortable with those sore muscles. As my husband pointed out, the bed sure beat sleeping on the ground! I understand that hikers get dorms, but those seemed acceptable enough, too.
After the dinners are served, they reopen the dining room as the canteen and serve beer and people gather and talk. The phone, which I thought was "broken" during dinner, worked again afterward, so I made a few calls. The phone takes calling cards/collect/credit calls only, so no need for change, and the surcharges charged from the phone were minimal.
Breakfast the next morning was scrambled eggs, pancakes, bacon, and fruit and was very tasty and filling. It seemed that conversation was a bit more stifled in the morning; no doubt people's adrenaline has died down and their focused on their hike ahead or are just sore and tired from hiking down the night before! Hikers can pre-order a sack lunch, which you pick up at breakfast.
While at Phantom, make sure to buy a couple postcards from the canteen and mail them from the bottom - they're carried by mule back up the trail, and are stamped that they were delivered by mule. (I can attest to this - my mule was the mailman on our ride!) They have a few other "exclusive" Phantom Ranch designs too, so if you want some more Phantom swag be sure to check it out. (Don't worry, they take credit cards.)
Out of the millions of people who gaze at the Grand Canyon every year, only a few ever see Phantom. It is worth the planning and the hike/ride to get down there, if only to experience the serenity we felt walking around amid the yellow leaved trees in mid-December and feeling in wonder of it all. If you go, you will never regret it. I really hope to return one day, next time as a hiker. read more