Six weeks ago, I went to Mikla the first time. A few days earlier, I had been to Leb-i Derya and really enjoyed it a lot - leading to a bit of a difficulty in making my mind up about Mikla. So I decided to wait for another dinner on the top of the Marmara Pera, and then write something.
Well, yesterday was that second dinner. So here we go:
Yes, it's a fine place to have a dinner. No doubt about it. You can taste and see and feel that they have a concept about what they do, and I haven't had anything there that would have disappointed me. Yesterday night was no different, and my friends felt the same way.
We did the usual - bir, iki, üç - three courses, fixed price menu, which is, of course, appetizer, main course, and dessert.
bir:
The dried tenderloin with hummus was fine - contrary to other reviewers I really didn't mind that the tenderloin wasn't cut thin like Swiss Bündner Fleisch, but prepared like little thick pellets that could be decorated with the hummus and/or the "birdshit" paste (isn't there a more culinary name for it? it's funny, yes, but still a little strange).
My colleagues were raving about the octopus, and I tried the bonito, it was really tasty too. It was a good start, and I had the feeling that they want to give us strong, but not all too intense taste sensation - or in other words, the cook seems to have a clear idea what he wants us to experience. Nice.
iki:
There is a nice selection of seafood dishes, and several lamb selections, but this time I went for the grilled beef tenderloin with the potato and bergama tulum cheese terrine, onions, mushrooms, and spinach. Delicious. Great meat, expertly grilled, and the terrine is a tasty addition. The reduced Çalkarası wine sauce was very reduced and was almost preferring to stay on the plate rather than acoompanying the meat, but it was delicious. It would have been better if the dish had reached me a little earlier. Which leads me to my first bit of slight criticism. When the main courses reached our table, the head waiter wanted to serve them, but somehow the plates must have been mixed up, and he got massively angry with the other waiter, leaving our table, cursing the other waiter, and placing our dishes at the bar next to us. This is a scene that just shouldn't be witnessed by guests, especially not if the reduced wine sauce turns into something like a paste when it's waiting on the bar, abandoned by the head waiter. But just a few moments later, the mixup was fixed and everybody had the right dish.
On my first night at Mikla, I had the Iskenderun prawns - they were quite delicious too, and my colleague tried the Dentex (yes, it's a fish, even though the name would suggest something completely different) - a fine selection too. So if you want to eat something that you probably can't get around where you live, try the Dentex. White fish with a firm texture, ideal for being grilled.
üç:
Dessert is just marvelous. I do have a mixed image of dessert in Turkey, some of the traditional dishes are a little too syrupy for me, a good bit too sweet. But the selections at Mikla are all really delicious, as if the chef had reserved the largest part of his creative talent for this section of the menu.
I really loved the warm mulberry soup with cinnamon crumbs and tahini ice cream - so wonderfully not-sweet, very rich in aroma. The chocolate mousse was closer to a truffe cake, and I clearly didn't mind, and the pomegranate sorbet was delicious. Sour apple sorbet, bulghur ice cream, candied pumpkin, grape molasses, sesame paste - just reading the ingredients of the items on the dessert menu gives you an idea how it is not the usual sugar attack on your senses.
The surroundings:
Of course, you get a magnificent view from up there, and you should really consider having your aperitif on the terrace outside. Generally, you do get a good service, and the waiters will be very happy to tell you more about the dishes they serve you. At times, they can be a little bit rushed, hard to get, impatient, and the head waiter seems to be a little short tempered. Plus - they should have someone that is really deeply knowledgeable about the Turkish wines on the list. We are lost otherwise.
The place is popular, and as a consequence it's quite busy. If you have the bad luck of being placed next to a group of 20 business people, you might not have the exquisite experience you should expect for the price. And it is a pricey affair. Maybe that's why I hesitated to write about Mikla three days after Leb-i Derya - I had a wonderful evening there, with great food, but paid massively less.
The Mikla is aiming high, with the concept, the quality, and the service - and they have to have a really good night every night. Reportedly, they normally do. My two nights weren't perfect, had a few glitches, and still the food was great, the evening a nice memory.
On a really good night, I'd gladly give them a fifth star. read more