Tucked away in a back harbor of Lake Michigan, in the historic city of Manistee, you'll find a…read morepiece of history that is patiently awaiting your visit. It's the car ferry SS City of Milwaukee, built in 1931. The ferry was a product of Manitowoc Shipbuilding, constructed for the Grand Trunk Railroad. She replaced the Grand Trunk Railroad car ferry, the SS Milwaukee, which was lost at sea with all hands in 1929.
First thing, let's clear this up: a car ferry was built to haul railroad cars across Lake Michigan, not automobiles. The SS City of Milwaukee was the last of six sister ships built by Manitowoc Shipbuilding to the same design in the 1920s. Car Ferries hauled freight cars across Lake Michigan to avoid rail congestion in Chicago. The golden era of Lake Michigan car ferry service was in the mid 1950s but by the 1970s, trucks were taking away freight customers and with better trackage rights in Chicago, car ferries became too expensive to operate.
The SS City of Milwaukee ceased sailng as a car ferry in 1981, and in 1988, was purchased by the Society for the Preservation of the SS City of Milwaukee. She was placed on the National Register of Historic Places on December 23, 1990. The SS City of Milwaukee is the last car ferry built prior to WWII that remains in an as-built condition. Everything on board is as she was built, from the engine room to the the car deck, to the bridge, and all the beautiful woodwork in the passenger ares.
If you take the tour of the ship, which I highly recommend, your guide will explain how freight cars were loaded and prepared for the voyage. You'll see the engine room and the triple expansion steam engines that drove the ferry across the lake. You'll see the "flicker" (crew quarters) gally, captain's quarters, the bridge, passenger space and staterooms.
Speaking of staterooms, you can stay overnight (in season) in a stateroom, aboard what is probably the only bed & breakfast that floats.
Docked with the SS City of Milwaukee is the USCG Acacia, a buoy tender that is also a floating museum. Take the tour of the Acadia, too!
Be aware, there is a lot of walking, and any number of stairs that are narrow and steep. (These are ships, after all, where space is always at a premium.) Just the same, the tour is well worth the effort!
Now, about the SS City of Milwaukee as a bed & breakfast...remember, this was a working packet, not a luxury cruiser on the Carribean Sea. The ship was at sea for only a few hours on each crossing. As a result, the state rooms are cozy and rest rooms are communal. The ship is not air conditioned, however, there is an air conditioned area in the forward observation room, so you can cool off there. Each room is equipped with a fan and a nice, evening breeze off the lake helps keep you cool. (During the Covid-19 issue, breakfast has been suspended.) Tip: Pack lightly! It's a long walk from the parking area to the passenger deck.
Spending the night in the SS City of Milwaukee is an adventure in living history, and probably a third of the price of that fancy motel across the highway. It's also far more romantic. If you're a rail fan, or a fan of Great Lakes shipping, a fan of history or just someone who likes a new adventure, book a room on the SS City of Milwaukee and have an enjoyable stay that you can brag about for years!