The Kursalon is a frothy rococo jewel nestled in the green depths of Stadtpark (City Park), well worth visiting whether for an afternoon concert on a hot summer day or an evening soiree as snow blankets the city. The concert hall graced by Vienna's native sons, Johann Strauss and family, is a must-see for classical fans and a very popular stop for English language tours to take in somewhat kitschy Strauss concerts.
My husband and I attended an evening ball during Fasching, the ball season, in February. The Kursalon made a dramatic set piece for a busy evening of dining, waltzing, and whirling to the lively string pieces that served as the soundtrack for our whirlwind trip of Austria. Huge lamps floodlit the gorgeous stone facade, golden light spilling out past scarlet curtains in every tall window. Take a few moments to soak in the gracious architecture of another age, especially if you are more familiar with steel and glass structures.
We stepped back in time a century, if not for the host of sleek coupes lined up at the valet parking. Access to the parking lot from the street is straightforward, and spaces quite dear. Rather than hire a car or trust a cab, we took the u-bahn (yes, in full ball attire) two stops from our hotel to Stadtpark. From there, it's a very short walk down the path into the Kursalon proper. In the spring and summer, trees shade the winding paths. We fortunately escaped a dusting of snow and laughed like children, having the entire enchanted route to ourselves.
The interior is no less grand. This is Vienna, after all, where no minor details are spared. Buttercream walls and hallmark baroque plasterwork envelope the foyer and into the side rooms where we dined. Red carpets cushion your steps across the stone floors and up broad stairs that access the balconies. For a performance, the best seats are truly up there where guests can admire the other patrons and the elevated stage below.
Our ball opened with a seated dinner. We were seated in the secondary hall, not the central Strauss hall (where tickets were very dear indeed). Views over the City Park through the French doors were especially romantic as light flurries dusted across the grounds. Tables seating 8-10 people were placed fairly fair apart, beautifully arranged with flowers and tableware, and the catering staff is very attentive. Unfortunately the poor ladies were dressed in late 18th/early 19th century gowns and wigs, far too touristy for my liking, and constantly threatening to spill over in more way than one!
Dinner was the high point, and a lovely experience. I could have done without the LCD flatscreen TVs constantly broadcasting the menu and evening programme, however, which took away from the atmospheric elegance. The sound system for the string orchestra playing during our visit was quite adequate, though seeing debutante dancers through a crush of bodies is very difficult due to poor vantage and lighting.
As for the ball itself, the less said the better. That itself was an experience that barely rated two stars on account of an absolutely crammed dance floor and the inexcusable decision to allow smoking upstairs in the second ballroom. I respect that certain European countries allow smoking indoors, but at a ball? Not only do we have to fear for our expensive evening gowns and tuxedos, but cigarette smoke is out of the question for participants with lung issues, allergies, aversions to smoking or pregnancy (and I had the latter two during our visit). No where was it announced that the whole floor was smoking-okay. read more