Solociccia is the casual restaurant offering of the world-famous butcher Dario Cecchini. He…read morerepresents the 9th generation of his family's tradition, taking over the business when his father passed in 1976. His macelleria (butcher shop) "Antica Macelleria Cecchini" is located in Panzano, located somewhere along the Tuscan countryside in the Chianti region. An otherwise sleepy town, foodies, winos and foodie/wino tourists flock to the macelleria to sample their meats over a glass of Chianti. He's developed into quite the famous butcher with appearances with TV chef personalities (Bourdain, Batali) and celebrities paying top dollar for his cuts.
His holistic approach to his butchery stems from his former vet school training. He emphasizes treating the animal with utmost respect throughout its life and to incorporate all parts of the animal in its preparations. This restaurant reiterates his philosophy with the standard €30 six-course meal specifically excluding any traditional steak preparations and specifically including such dishes as boiled beef's knees prepared with seasonal vegetables. Quite an improvement for a cut typically meant to be given to dogs.
I was introduced to this as part of the "Super Chianti" itinerary through Grape Tours - it was advertised as one of the stops. We were first served up salumi, crostini and cups of Chianti at the main butcher shop, then our group was led across the street to the restaurant. One of the crostini toppers was lard, fat that can't be found in the US.
Tables are set up convivially and meals are served family-style. The menu is peppered with references to Dante's "Divine Comedy", which Cecchini has been known to recite by heart while going about his work. We were served a modification of the standard "Menu del Macellaio". While it included the sides and dessert, we were instead served four different dishes alongside the "bistecca fiorentina", not included in the standard menu but advertised in the tour itinerary as a highlight. As a solo traveler, due to bistecca being served by gram minimums in other restaurants this would realistically be my only opportunity to try the Florentine speciality.
MEATS
1. Spicy meat ragu on toast
2. Beef roast
3. Boiled beef and vegetable salad
4. Braised meats
(5. Bistecca fiorentina)
Emphasizing the philosophy the meat dishes are identified with a number, which is associated with a certain part of the cow. Yes, that boiled beef with vegetable dish is made using the knees.
The surprising thing is that the bistecca ended up being the *least* favorite of the meat dishes. It is intentionally served plain and you season it to taste with their special salt. Being served rare didn't bother me as I knew this was the traditional preparation of the dish.
The other dishes were excellent. I loved the roast, broiled and braised meat dishes equally. Even better was that I didn't feel bloated after eating the meat. It helped that my palate cleanser was not a carb but vegetables dipped in evoo/salt mixture.
SIDES
- Vegetables to dip in extra virgin olive oil
- Our special salt
- Garbanzo and white beans
- Coffee, e.v. olive oil cake
- Grappa and Italian Military spirits
The vegetables are presented in a small bowl and are meant to be dipped in a mixture of evoo and salt. Vegetables were very fresh and served as a good palate cleanser. Beans were al dente.
The salt was so good that I ended up purchasing this salt to take back home. It tastes quite different from your typical seasoned salt you can find at the grocery store. Much more fine.
Coffee and olive oil cake were delicious. Refreshing dessert and went well with the coffee. The grappa is a bit strong and is an acquired taste. Think of a bitter brandy made as a digestive.
With so many highlights of my 2-week Italy trip, this ended up being my personal foodie favorite moment of the trip. Being a solo traveler I am appreciative of any opportunity to eat convivially over good food. Although I didn't get to meet Dario on this trip, I am very grateful to have eaten at his restaurant as foodies would love to have a similar opportunity. Many thanks to Grape Tours for this incredible opportunity - this will go down as one of the best meals I've ever partaken.