This is a review of the WWOOFing experience, their wines, and their B&B business. Castello di…read morePotentino is a truly special place, nestled in a still-unspoiled Tuscan wilderness. It's a vineyard and olive estate surrounding a recently-renovated 10th century castle. As one of the proprietors is fond of saying, the castle was renovated to look like it wasn't renovated. This means that there is WiFi (in some parts), electric lights, hot water, and flushing toilets, but you won't see a sleek stainless steel light fixture or modern art sculptures or anything super 'modern chic'. The place is *gorgeously* decorated, inside and out. Each room in the castle is uniquely decorated and the place has been used for photo and film shoots. When I was there, a moderate size film crew was there shooting a Medieval period piece; there were Medieval costumes, horses(!), falcons(!!), white box trucks, and, hilariously, film crew waving frantically at you not to cross the courtyard that you were about to step into because you'd be in the camera shot, following by a distant shout in Italian to effect of, "quiet on the set, cameras rolling (or something)". Lots of fun watching that process. On one weekend during my stay, there was a large wedding party, and I was delighted to see the place transformed and decorated festively for the wedding. The castle is definitely large enough to support multiple types of gatherings. They have a small chapel, multiple outdoor spaces for banquets, and the backdrops are resplendent with vineyards, olive trees, and an unspoiled Tuscan countryside.
I did an stint via WWOOF (World-wide Opportunities on Organic Farms), where I am provided food and shelter and I volunteer to help on the farm. When applying, the two owners were good about responding via email and setting general expectations. I stayed about two weeks in the late Spring and really loved the experience there. WWOOFers can number from two to eight, and they all stay in the WWOOF flat, which is basically a three-bedroom apartment in the castle with electric lights, running water, and dorm-style accommodations (2-3 per room, plenty of space). Laundry facilities and WiFi available. Hours in the fields or helping in the winemaking/bottling areas are generally seven hours a day, five days a week, with Sat/Sun off, and a little extra work setting or clearing the tables at lunch and dinner. Mathematically, this adds up to more hours than the nominal norm for WWOOFing (5-6 hours/day, 6 days per week), but it's more than made up for by having two days off instead of one per week, which I think is a good tradeoff. The food is wonderful. Charlotte and Alexander (British) have gone native in a lot of ways, including excellent Tuscan food using locally-sourced ingredients. They are very knowledgeable about the local agriculture and food. Meals are taken with the owners and any family friends that are visiting (which can be quite an fun, interesting cast of characters), and if the hotel guests are eating at the castle, nearly the entire castle eats together. It makes for very interesting conversation and a convivial atmosphere. The house wines are always drunk at every meal, as is their homegrown olive oil.
The wines are very good. I brought home and shared with friends the 2011 Sacromonte (red, Sangiovese), and won high votes of confidence from my two friends who are Napa Valley natives (Napa Valley=California wine region). I enjoyed tasting all the wines as we took meals together over two weeks.
I didn't stay at the B&B portion; I was in the WWOOF flat, but I did get a chance to see some of the rooms, and they vary a lot in their architecture and decor, but all gorgeously and sumptuously decorated. There are two-bedroom apartments and single rooms and stuff in between. This variance comes from being in a centuries-old castle that had been added to by different owners over the centuries. This is a small B&B operation. It's only Charlotte and Alexander, plus a resident groundskeeper and maid. Between the four of them and some WWOOFers, they grow, harvest and make thousands and thousands of bottles of wine, harvest and make olive oil, and run a B&B operation, so in American parlance, this is definitely a 'small, family-run B&B.' That is, don't expect the type of attentiveness or efficiency compared to, say, a Four Seasons Resort, but do expect that you'll have a unique and special experience in a very special place.
