Situated 2km north of Vilanova along a narrow lane, this imposing 18th century mansion was the main…read more'country' residence of the Cabanyes family, the best best known member of which was Manuel de Cabanyes, (1808-1833), the Catalan Romantic poet and admirer of Byron.
The house itself was built in the neo-classical style between 1790 and 1798 for Manuel's father. It remained in the family until 1972, when it was sold to the local council, who have partially restored the house.
The exterior is the most impressive part, in fact: the pink plaster and brick facade stands imposingly on a wide terrace. It incorporates a verandah with handsome round arched arcades, on three sides of the house, to provide shade in summer to the main living areas.
The ground floor consists mostly of well preserved brick-vaulted cellars, used to house the wine that was the main source of the family's wealth. The original staircase has disappeared, but was not apparently especially impressive: the house was designed as a retreat, and guests would be entertained at the main town house 2km away in Vilanova - so there was no need for grand staircases here.
The first floor contains some of the living rooms of the family, complete with original furnishings and some of the paintings collected by various family members during the 19th century. The main room has an incredible domed ceiling, decorated with an intricate classical pattern, and a late 18th century pianola imported from England.
Many visitors come to see the bedroom - and bed - in which the youthful Manuel de Cabanyes died in 1833 (of TB - appropriately for the time, for a delicate, young poet). The Russian Room contains its original furniture, imported from Russia in the early 19th century, which gives it its name.
Also on view are the library and kitchen. After this, the rest of the main floor is a bit of a disappointment, as the rooms at the rear have been knocked together to form a conference facility, which provides the main use of the building today. The upper floors, which contained the servants' quarters, are not open to the public.
To British eyes, the restoration of much of the house in an uncompromisingly modern style comes as something of a shock, especially if you are used to the standards of English Heritage and the National Trust. But it does at least ensure a continued use for the property today, as well as its survival in a small town with a limited budget for such a large heritage project.
The grounds include a small formal garden, in need of some restoration, and an expanse of lawns on the terrace with good views over the surrounding vineyards. What is left of the park around the mansion is now a picnic area, and to the west the somewhat unlikely location of the encampment (complete with rather ugly caravans) of a circus training school.
Opening hours are limited, but the guides are enthusiastic and knowledgeable. There is parking on a roughly surfaced car park adjacent to the house, which is otherwise a 30 minute walk north from the town. It's worth ringing ahead if you intend to visit, as they close for staff holidays and other events at short notice (and unpublicised elsewhere).