Every once in a while, while traveling, instead of trying something new and adventurous your tastes pull you back to something simple and predictable and recognizable. Something that reminds you of home or of mom. For me it is this way with Gasthaus Stelzeneder. Good, solid, main-stream German/Austrian food... except my mother never made potatoes like these...
There is nothing else to say except the fired potatoes served with the schnitzel are the best fried potatoes I've ever had and one of the best and most satisfying dishes I have ever had. Period... The beef broth soup? Nice, tasty, perhaps a bit too much bread in it. The side salad? Perfectly acceptable but nothing memorable. The schnitzel? Better then most, but frankly they could've taken both schnitzel pieces back for more potatoes.
And the potatoes! Ach du lieber! They were tremendous. In the US we call these "home fries" and they are often served alongside eggs and bacon in the morning. Let me tell you, every line order cook who makes homes fries in the US needs to spend a week here in Charlottenburg and learn at the feet of the master at Stelzeneder. The potatoes were perfectly cooked and also came out very hot. Not overcooked like many "home fries" back home in the States. Each piece of potato kept it's shape and it didn't all melt into some indistinguishable mash of starch like back home.
The potatoes were fried in a bunch of coarsely ground up ham and the ham clearly imparted a flavor into the starch, but only on the surface. Remember these potatoes had to be made fresh because they were not overcooked so when you bit into them you initially tasted the ham on your tongue but then finished with the distinct and satisfying flavor of potato. And the seasoning was perfect. This was one of the only times I didn't reach at all for the salt for my potatoes. Additionally the fresh parsley (not dried) is the perfect yin to the ham's yang.
Come to this place for a good home-cooked meal, and please, please, have the fried potatoes. read more