The culinary home of Chef Peter Goossens, an old farmhouse in Kruishoutem not far from the Dutch…read moreborder, Restaurant Hof Van Cleve holds an interesting history that saw Goossens join the kitchen staff in 1987 before eventually purchasing it after accumulating worldwide accolades and although the process of making an online reservation was perhaps one of the most rude and difficult of all those found in Europe, the Summer 2016 tasting menu could not have been finer as the kitchen sent out over fifteen courses all-inclusive of canapes and mignardises.
All-in-all a very small restaurant, the L-Shaped space from front door to kitchen containing perhaps thirty seats, it was at the far end of the second room that a two top big enough for four was offered and after a quick perusal of two tastings plus a la carte options the decision was made to select the more intensive experience, one small substitution allowed for without a question by the Chef.
Functioning like many of Michelin's very best, the service "present but invisible" while dining, yet completely cordial and informative when called upon, the tasting began with a pricy glass of bubbly plus a €20 Mocktail in tune with the season, a small bowl of carrot veloute served as a frothy cappuccino along with in-house bread service that featured five varieties, unsalted butter brought from a nearby farm with the salted version procured from Bordier.
Difficult to know, precisely, where the gifts end and tasting begins, two crisps topped with seafood were dynamic bites of texture as well as taste, and although the tartare featured a great composition of "surf and turf" by way of anchovy dressing the marinated Herring under vibrant granite was ever more compelling with the typically poignant fish lent a whole new degree of levity.
Progressing steadily through several seafood courses, the snappy Langoustine standing out alongside Chicken Liver mousse and Radish while cubes of Red Shrimp next played off puffed Rice atop Romesco, a truly wowing course arrived next by way of two services of Seabass , the first a room temperature filet in textures of Green Apple and Cucumber while the later bathed in warm miso with Sea Urchin and crispy Quinoa.
More bread requested, the Spelt particularly remarkable, King Crab next arrived gently steamed next to Cauliflower and Mushrooms, the Codfish and Eel continuing to show Belgium's fondness for Asparagus, as did the sizable segment of Lobster "Oosterschelde" whose sauce competed with that from Sea Grill's Silver Press for 'best ever status' alongside tender Morels, twice-shucked Peas and even more Asparagus.
Having requested the Sweetbread in place of Veal, a simple change that saw only the protein changed while the accoutrements remained the same, a selection of custom knives made by a nearby artisan were offered in tune with artwork and cheers equally local, the plate itself reining rich meat in by way of Picadilly and Aubergine while a sidecar of Veal Cheek was a well composed counterpoint in reduced stock beneath a satiny cap of Bone Marrow fortified Mousseline.
Passing on Cheeses, the selection smaller than some but appearing to be enjoyed by a table of businessmen who partook, it was with amusement that the table adjacent enjoyed a simple Dame Blanche after an attenuated a la carte lunch, the degustation instead finishing with elegantly plated Strawberry Rhubarb as well as Dark Chocolate compositions, the later made truly memorable by way of Green Apple juice added tableside while the Dessert Trolley offered even more temptation followed by warm Madelines, Dutch Donuts, Chocolates and Pralines.
