Okay so every yelper and their dog has written a review about Edinburgh Castle. But I still feel the urge to express my opinion- that same urge that has got me into trouble many a time.
Let me begin by saying that Edinburgh Castle, as a landmark, is truly beautiful. I could not wish for any other entity to sit, like a crown, at the centre of the city I live. No matter the view, if you can see Edinburgh Castle, it always remains impressive. It LOOKS spectacular.
However my feelings on the rest of the Castle experience are rather a mixed bunch. I'll get it out now and agree with the others who complain about the price. Some days you will be met with half hour+ queues only find out you have to pay half your travellers checks to get in.
But that isn't my main complaint, my main complaint is that I can't get over the fact that I feel Edinburgh Castle is a little phony. I feel like its presented as some symbol of Scottishness, and at the very least, a paradigm example of a Scottish castle. It's at least not the latter of these. Only part of the Great Hall and St Margaret's Chapel date from the 16th century or before, everything else is later, a large part Victorian. The Great Hall interior is Victorian (bar the ceiling which is genuine medieval and very impressive). It LOOKS medieval but its actually a Victorian romantic interpretation of a medieval hall. Of course the Hall did need repairing after Cromwell ruined it, but the fact its really a romanticised version of a castle is the feeling I feel pervades the whole site, not just the building, but also its presentation.
When I was in the Castle courtyard once, a tourist came up to me and said, "excuse me, could you tell me where the castle is?". "Madam, this IS the castle". I think there are two common responses from tourists after visiting, the first is that they love it in all its glory then expect all Scottish castles to resemble its grand facade, its completeness, its ideal castleness. Or they are perplexed "why doesn't it look anything the other castles we have seen around Scotland?"
There is, of course, so much history surrounding the castle. There has been a Royal Castle here since the 12th century. It has seen many wars, through the "Lang Siege" and the Jacobite Rebellions and all. I actually find the war museum, separate but based in the castle grounds, to be one of the more interesting parts, as I actually feel I learn something from it. The rest of the castle just feels, to be honest, a bit boring. A large part of it feels like a series of New Town villas (a residue of the castle's use as a military barracks).
The castle also lets down in its use for several over priced restaurants and tourist gifts shops. How many does it need? With every other shop down the Royal Mile selling whisky and books about genuine Scottish ghosts, does our premier historical site have to too?
Having said it all this, Edinburgh castle is worth a visit. It has moments when it does impress and even if only for the sake of its vital role (note, in the past) of Scottish history, you can still feel the nostalgia. I too have good memories of visiting as a child, and I wouldn't want to ignore those. Just remain open minded and do a bit of reading around the side. And expect to pay for the privilege. Lots. read more