Long time readers know that I have a love-hate relationship with high end restaurants, especially those that bring a bit of a "modernist" approach to their dishes. I've had exceptional meals, I've had horrendous meals, at places that regularly win awards and are touted by many as pinnacles of what can be achieved in the kitchen (until someone else comes along and shows that there's a different pinnacle that's better, or different, or... whatever). One of the things that attracted me to finally get around to DOM, Rua Barão de Capanema 549, is that chef Alex Atala doesn't go for the whole modernist thing particularly. Sure, there are touches here and there, but it's mostly about exploring, in-depth, individual ingredients "re-discovered" (or, as Henry put it, appropriated) from indigenous cultures in Brazil's history and among its "first peoples".
So what's the experience at DOM, one of Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants, and one of the few Michelin starred restaurants in Brazil (2 stars), and touted left and right as one of the finest dining experiences in the country? On arrival, a lovely greeting, and immediately to the table. Before anything, water is offered. Once that's on the table, a cocktail and wine list is brought. I'm a little disappointed in the latter. It's extensive, no doubt (and expensive, but that was to be expected), but for a place that's all about Brazil and what the country has to offer, it's notably light on domestic offerings. Brazil may not be one of the world's top wine producers, but there are plenty of wineries around - 150 who produce "fine wine" at levels sufficient for commercial distribution, and another 1100 smaller producers, many of whom could certainly supply a single, top end restaurant with a mission of this sort. Yet a list of well over a hundred wines only offers two sparkling, one white, and two red wines from the country.
You basically have a choice between four menus - the Optimus or the Maximus, respectively noted as 8 or 10 courses (each actually has 10 or 12, because there's an amuse and a pre-dessert), and each in either meat or vegetarian versions. They aren't cheap, the meat versions running, respectively, 550 and 700 reales, or $132/7900 pesos, and $167/10050 pesos, and that's all without beverages. The vegetarian versions are a bit less, I think they were 450 and 600 reales. In for a centavo, in for a reál, given that likely it's the only time we'd ever eat here, we ordered a couple of Maximuseseses.
.... [not going to review each plate, though I did on my blog]
So look, none of the food was bad, though the main course of beef with vanilla really didn't work for us - either in flavor or texture, but that's more personal tastes. But with the exception of the scallop and the fish soup, none of them stood out as something either of us really wanted to eat again... okay, the duck was good too. The final dessert was fine, though coming on the heels of a sorbet, it was just odd. But again, none of it bad, none of it inedible, but no wows. And bluntly, for $167 apiece, I want some wows.
Intellectually, really interesting, and the whole story behind what Atala is trying to do here is fascinating. But I'd have trouble recommending it as a place to go to for a pleasurable night out. The food just isn't good enough, and the service is too robotic (friendly robots, but everything very rote, and without a lot of knowledge of what they're doing), and lacking in communication between staff members. Final total for the night, a whopping R$1892 ($452/27,135 pesos) - including multiple bottles of water (they didn't ask if we wanted more, apparently just opening them and continuing to refill glasses - given that they didn't ask, we though perhaps water was included in the menu price, it's not - and a 10% tip, which is standard here, though they tried to slip in a tip of double that, and got all flustered when I said no, and to bring it down to what's normal for Brazil - this isn't New York City). read more