I was recently given the pleasure of dining here as part of a qype preview evening on January 19th, along with a number of other qypers, to mark the change of the restaurant from private members only to open to the general public. I'd never known there was a restaurant at the Commonwealth Club and the idea of opening up to the public sounded like it would be the start of something special, so I jumped at the chance to get involved.
We were to have a five-course taster menu with each course accompanied by a specially suited glass of wine, which I thought was a really nice touch and I found all of the wines rather nice, particularly the Rhine Reisling (South Africa).
We were seated as a group with a row of two-person tables collected together in the centre of the room, which is enormous, with a very high ceiling.
The ambience of the place really does not suit a restaurant, sadly: the large space with mostly plain white walls and bright, sharp and non-defused listing makes the room feel more like a gallery than a restaurant. It was, sadly, not the most intimate of locations which is a quality I look for in a restaurant (Thyme in Greenwich or Arbutrus in Soho are great example). Thankfully, the walls were not plain white but instead featured a few large-scale paintings, one of which was a rather dissapointingly cheesy shot of London.
To my mind, with the white walls and high ceilings, I think it would be hard to improve the atmosphere, but I have an idea: how about hanging paintings around the room, possibly a few rows up each wall and perhaps alter the lighting to give a more diffused, warm light.
The food, however, is primarily what a restaurant is for and we sat and were brought rolls and butter. I felt somewhat disappointed by these as they were (for each variety) almost exactly identical as if stamped by a machine which somewhat jaded my experience. foodservice quality wasn't something I was expecting; what would've been ideal would be bread made on the premises - a restaurant whos appearances made me this it was high calibre wouldn't use food-service products. Served with cold, hard butter meant I made a bit of a mess of mine. The best way, in my mind is to have butter at room temperature, or olive oil, so people's gastronomic experience begins right at the start.
Starter 1: we were treated with a starter of scallop, something I've never had before. I'm normally squeamish of shellfish but thought I'd give it a try - I was pleasantly surprised. Nicely cooked, well presented and quite tasty.
Starter 2: smoked wild duck, lightly curried lentil soup, pomegranate salad. This was rather nice and again well presented but quite a small portion. It was after this that I started to wonder what the restaurant was trying to do, as I thought that the combination of flavours was just a little, well, odd.
Main 1: North Scotland monkfish, mussels, orzo pasta and shellfish nage. This was wonderful, although the smell of the 'shellfish nage' (I've no idea what 'nage' is but I assume some form of sauce), permeated the room for a while afterwords. Lovely fish, nice pasta and, sadly, I couldn't bring myself to try the mussel.
Main 2: Chard farm venison 'roast and braised' confit celeriac, red cabbage and bitter chocolate jus. Lovely flavours, great presentation but a little cool when it reached me. I've never had a roast and braised combination and I'm happy to say it works well.
Dessert 1: Blood orange sorbet, candied ginger. To me, this was my favourite dish of the evening, after the monkfish (in spite of the seafood smell). The sorbet was wonderful - tangy and only a little sweet, as sorbets should be. The candied ginger seemed pointless and came over a little crunch; I would like to see the sorbet served on a restaurant made thin ginger biscuit. I think the extra 'crunch' from the biscuit, combined with the tang of the sorbet would be a hell of a way to end a meal.
Dessert 2: Spiced apple cake and blackberry variations. Oddly enough, I don't remember the apple cake. I guess it really didn't leave that great an impression on me. The blackberry variations did, however and I was very impressed by how these tasted and were presented. Odd time of year for blackberries though, so I wonder where they came from.
Overall, I had doubts about this restaurant. I was lucky enough to be seated two seats from the manager, who was kind enough to join us and he told me that, as they were new to the public, they were still finding their feet.
I entirely understand this because the restaurant, as a whole, appears confused and, sadly, very overpriced. Portion sizes such as were provided were quite small, which would be fine in a very fine restaurant but the atmosphere we were in simply did not suit that and the food-service rolls were a real turn off, as was the random way the waiting staff were dressed: everyone differently, although to a same basic colour scheme. The high ceilings and long history read more