Forget the non-starter that is the American food truck craze in this city; the real story is in the…read moreemerging Mexican food truck scene, and you don't have to drive all around the city to find them - they're mostly on Broadway. And if you're in Nomar Plaza, you currently have three trucks from which to choose. The first, Tacos El Torito, have already been lauded by me previously. The second, Pollos y Carnes, was intended to be the subject of my Mexican craving this evening, but a New Challenger Approaches in Los Dos Costas, a windowless truck that isn't as much designed for you to grab and go as it is centered around the provided tables and condiments, to share and fully embrace the environment.
In the beginning, I wasn't even sure if this was a business. The truck wasn't quite as flashy as the others, and the lack of window meant that to order I had to talk directly to the proprietor, a part-time pipe-layer spending some time off working with the rest of his family in the truck. As he sat, ate, and talked with me, I learned his family is from a city near Acapulco, which introduced a few new elements not normally seen in the Mexican cuisine around here. But I'll get to that. (HIMYM Reference #1)
I needed some help when I confidently walked under that sunshade and quickly realized I had no idea what was going on, and he came over to talk me through things. I expressed an interest in tacos, and was explained that they offered four primary types of tacos: tripa, suadero, carne asada, and al pastor. When listing these fillings, he quickly dismissed the tripa, suggesting that I "probably wouldn't like that". Now, true, tripa is not normally one of my go-to taco staples, but CHALLENGE ACCEPTED (HIMYM Reference #2), if only because he clearly mistook me for an average Wichitan. Over the course of our meal, as we talked about our respective livings and my thoughts on Wichita's Mexican food (no surprise we shared similar sentiments about Connie's), his comments towards how I ate and my appreciation of spice inspired no little pride when he told me I ate like a Mexican.
Gloating aside, it shouldn't be any surprise when you step up to a place like this that your tacos are going to be double-wrapped and topped with onions and cilantro. The al pastor was great; the carne asada was good. The tripa was tender, not rubbery, and cleaned well. As for the suadero - it's referred to as "rose meat", and aside from agreeing that it's beef, the Internet can't seem to arrive at a consensus as to an official description of it. The suadero I had was pulled like carnitas, and had a little bit of smoky crisp from the grill. Certainly something to try, if not only because it was my most enjoyed taco, but also because it's not something you're likely to find in many other places around here. Add on some of the community container of carrot-onion-habanero mixture sitting on the table, maybe some salsa, and it's as good as it's going to get.
Before I insisted on tacos, I was also recommended on a fried chicken and rice dish that received high praise from a fellow diner. Given their costal tendencies (and name), they also have some seafood offerings, like shrimp and ceviche.
At it's best, food isn't about the ingredients, but the experience of breaking bread, and sharing experiences. I came for the former, but I left with the latter, and it made the meal that much better.
