Girona has one of Spain's most impressive cathedrals, in one of its most dramatic settings.
History
The see of Girona dates back to the 3rd century and Roman times, and there was a recorded meeting here in the 6th century. Nothing remains of the various original buildings, which were incorporated into a mosque during the Moorish period from the 7th to the 11th centuries.
A new cathedral was built in the 11th and 12th centuries, but substantially rebuilt from the 14th century onwards, when the present and impressive nave was completed. The front was given a Baroque makeover in the 17th century, including an impressive approach of 76 steps.
The building
The approach from the square at the foot of the steps has to be one of the most dramatic of any church, anywhere. From this level, the impressive baroque facade dominates the view, although the Romanesque 'Tower of Charlemagne', surviving from the 12th century is clearly visible.
Entry (except for services) is via a small building on the left of the façade, which provides entry to the museum, cloisters and the church itself.
The museum houses a number of religious artefacts, the most important of which is the 11-12th century 'creation tapestry', regarded by many as the most outstanding Romanesque textile in existence.
Beyond this on the left is the Chapel of the Assumption, which contains one of the more astonishing pieces of early 18th century religiosity, an altar piece complete with the Virgin Mary being lifted - in her bed - by angels under a canopy topped by a huge crown.
Straight ahead is the original 11-12th century cloister, a harmonious and calm space, with round of round arches supported on twin columns, each decorated with elaborate capitals. Although some are rather worn now, others are well preserved and draw inspiration from a wide range of religious and secular themes.
To the right is the main cathedral entrance, directly into the nave. This is a dramatic space, begun in 1416 after much debate on account of its width: at nearly 23m, and without aisles, it is the widest Gothic nave in the world; indeed, only the rather later nave of St Peter's is wider. This impressive space is marred a only little by the placing, in its centre, of a rather large and unattractive organ case in the 19th century.
The walls have no aisles but do have a row of chapels, for the most part filled with early 18th baroque altar-pieces, some of which are very attractive, while others demonstrate the full potential for excess of the Counter-reformation, and are something of an acquired taste.
The choir is relatively short, but has a spacious ambulatory, complete with more chapels, this time of a more refined nature, dating from the mediaeval to modern periods. The chapels are unusual in having a number of late mediaeval tombs, which are relatively rare in Spanish cathedrals. On the north wall is the tomb of Ramon Berenguer II, (1053-1082), one of the original Counts of Barcelona who ruled the area in the 11th century.
Outside, the south door is an impressive Gothic piece, fronting an attractive square. read more