"So we beat on, boats against the current, borne back ceaselessly into the past."…read more― F. Scott Fitzgerald, The Great Gatsby
We looked forward to visiting the sun-drenched shores of New Zealand's Hawke's Bay where the city of Napier which is globally known as the "Art Deco Capital of the World" and exudes the feeling of a meticulously preserved film set from the bygone Jazz Age/Art Deco era which conjures up F. Scott Fitzgerald's fictitious tragic character, James Gatz or The Great Gatsby. We selected the city tour highlighting Napier's Art Deco structures rather than excursions featuring wine tasting at local vineyards or delving into the town's darker colonial history.
We started our 2.5-hr walking tour at the Art Deco Center in Napier's Memorial Square, where we sat and watched a movie chronicling the city's rebirth following a devastating 7.8-magnitude earthquake in 1931. Amazingly, the rebuilding took only two years because the Art Deco style was fashionable, affordable, structurally sound, and considered a cutting-edge trend in the 1930s. The Art Deco style allowed the city to project its optimism and modernity as residents moved away from traditional, classic Victorian-style buildings made of unreinforced cut stone. Leading local and international architects, such as American Frank Lloyd Wright, came to Napier to design the rebuilding using stucco and simple geometric and tropical designs. Other modern influences seen were Spanish Mission-style, Prairie-style, and Stripped Classical-style. Several local architects incorporated Māori design elements with the modern Art Deco zigzags and starbursts, creating a unique yet tailored appearance.
Unfortunately, we missed their Annual Art Deco Festival, which was held in February. Still, our city guide, who participates annually, mentioned their Gatsby Picnic, vintage car displays, 1930s fashion, costume dress-up, and live jazz music. She said that visitors are encouraged to dress in 1930s style, and those who don't often start to feel out of place and rush to several costume shops.
When we returned to the pier, we were treated to a vintage car display with their proud owners costumed in 1930s-style. In the background, I could hear Scott Joplin's The Entertainer (1902) playing over a radio while a couple danced the ragtime two-step.
We felt the genuine hospitality and welcoming nature of the Napier residents, and their pride in showcasing their city as the "Art Deco Capital of the World" shines through.
