A teeny, tiny little revival of the once monsterous, massive and infamous Les Halles Market, this…read moresmall little market is not for tourists looking for snapshots to send home or those unable or unwilling to speak French.
(Note: blocking access to my favorite stands on Sunday mornings so you can gape and oggle is not advised as I am grouchy on Sunday mornings - that, and the lovely little old ladies in this neighborhood can have sharp tempers and even sharper elbows.)
Although small in size, it manages to have everything I need - three fishmongers (one specializing in shellfish), two bakers (one organic), three or four fruit and vegetable stands (I believe one has organic options), a couple of cheesemongers, dairy/eggs, flowers, small production wines, dried fruits and olives, a butcher specializing in fantastic pork (but not short on beef, poutry, rabbit, and whatever else is desireable this time of year - at Christmastime, he had the most amazing turkeys and chapons), and a couple of to-go food stands. Around holidays, specialist offerings are added.
It's bustling and crowded and you'll probably get your toes stepped on more than once. Children eye the pastries while poor dogs wearing a funky sweaters and a panicked looks trie to avoid getting trampled.
I find the quality to be fantastic before noon and dismal by 2 p.m. The prices are sometimes better than what I can find in the shops and sometimes higher. Service is friendly, even for non-regular customers.
One final note: although the closing time is listed as 15:00, it usually wraps up closer to 14:15-14:30.