Following the trail blazed by D.O.M., TUJU by Chef Ivan Ralston pushes modern Brazilian Cuisine…read moreforward by not specifically showcasing local Ingredients, but reinterpreting the world through Brazilian eyes inside his Restaurant at Rua Fradique Coutinho 1248.
Open since 2014, and recently the recipient of a second Michelin Star, it is after passing through a hushed hallway that guests find themselves inside Ralston's "kitchen theater," a staff fluent in English leading guests to polished wooden tables that extend back towards the bar and urban garden on the patio.
A quiet and focused space in Vila Madalena, everything from TUJU's design to Cocktail list indicative of a Chef who has spent time researching both technique and his culture, guests visiting for the first time are encouraged to partake in Ivan's "Season Menu," the carte blanche taking into account allergies and dislike but otherwise consisting of thirteen courses served across two hours.
Trained in the kitchens of Maní, RyuGin and Mugaritz, the latter identifiable in modernist spins on local Produce, it was while sipping on a strong drink of Gin and sweetened Acid that course one arrived, sliced and aerated Pumpkin forming the background for Peas and Citrus with herbs that carry over nicely to a "Taco" comprised of sweet Crab and shaved Corn wrapped in Nasturtium.
Continuing light with translucent Shrimp swimming in vibrant Broth, its follow-up a comparison of local River Mussels to those from the Atlantic bathed in Manioc Root Juice, fans of Uni will be stunned by tender Tongues amidst a tangle of Leeks with Parsnip Cream while torched Cauliflower finds itself the centerpiece of a thick Sauce that tastes something like Mole mixed with Soy.
Shifting back to Seafood, a tender Tentacle obtained through Chef Ralston's relationship with local fisherman accented in umami, one would be hard-pressed to name a more interesting *looking* dish than Arapaima Fish in Seaweed Pil Pil, the combination of snappy Flesh and Skin Crisps equally tantalizing alongside Artichokes and Bean Sprouts.
Completing savories with grilled Tuna and two types of Palm plus unsweetened Açaí, a diversity of textures seeing the best bites those that incorporate a little of each into a single forkful, it is by way of Cheese that the palate is transitioned, the Blue and Parmesan-mimic particularly impressive, as too was housemade Bread and Butter plus the bright green Fruit described as a Fig.
Not scaling back on sweets, Dessert number one perfuming stewed Berries with Mint in a makeshift Sundae, it was while Coffee dripped tableside that a tangy Yogurt Parfait dazzled, the Pour Over subsequently enjoyed with housemade Chocolates filled with everything from Dulce de Leche and Cashew Fruit to Garlic.
