In the film Religulous, Bill Maher carries an extended conversation with Reginald Foster, an American Catholic priest and friar of the Order of Discalced Carmelites (It's called Wikipedia, folks). When Mahar asked Foster about the bizarre tendency of Catholics in a monotheistic religion to pray to an entity other than their actually god, Foster responded by citing a survey done in Italy where it was revealed that the sixth individual Italians pray to was none other than Jesus Christ, the heart of the faith. Jesus was sixth, leading Foster to comment, "Talk about cafeteria Catholics."
There was no greater example of this dichotomy than Assisi, a Christian commune in Italy with papal stores where one could purchase actual vestments. Despite the many crosses mixed with oddly displaced Roman relics, it all appears to take second fiddle the great St Frances of Assisi. How great is he? He occupies fully half of the walls of the dominant Basilica. The other half was for the seemingly equally important central figure of the faith. The church was packed full of tourists led by different guides. Ours was a shockingly curt lady that castigated photographers when she wasn't insulting both Germany and France in her tour of the Basilica (apparently, you can judge an entire country on the attitude of the monks from said country). Every time someone tried to take a photo from within the basilica, she would shout ,"NO PHOTO!" repeating the ridiculous argument about preserving the paintings against the damage from camera flashes.
Funny thing, during the tour, we all spotted a brilliant green laser pointer held by a monk at the church leading his own tour. I'm fairly certain a laser is more damaging that a camera flash, just saying. It's not like you could take a good photo anyway. It's incredibly dark inside. And I found the possible photos outside, both at the lower and upper grounds, much more satisfying. At night, Assisi all but clears out, offering Zen-like moments in near empty walkways around the church.
Beyond this, the Basilica is actually a beautiful place. Its dominant position does secure its place atop the reasons to visit Assisi, though not the only one. Visiting the Basilica di San Francesco is certainly a must, though don't come for the day expecting to only take in this one attraction. Assisi in its entirety is an amazing commune, with amazing shops; there's even a castle--though oddly ignored by the tour guides. If you think the Basilica is the only reason to visit Assisi, you'd be wrong. read more