Well that was interesting. Like my friend Kay says...
Two years ago, while driving us to our hotel in Shatin, our taxi driver casually said, unsolicited, "With the hotel so close by, you need to check out Chan Kun Kee!". That piqued our interest. Never mind that we'd never heard of this place: even where it's located (Wo Che Estate) was foreign. Even though I grew up in HKG, and not with a silver spoon in my mouth or anything, I'd never eaten at a dai pai dong (DPD). For the uninitiated, DPD is a street "restaurant", renowned for great food, low prices, and late hours - reasons that taxi drivers would be familiar with CKK and other DPDs. To detractors, though, a DPD means uncomfortable seating, noise, and conditions that are not necessarily sanitary. Even where it's located speaks to that aspect of its pedigree: you see, all low-cost housing complexes are euphemistically dubbed "estates" in HKG over the past 2-3 decades, and Wo Che was no different. We're not talking about gang-infested hoods, but it's definitely not upper-crust. But out of this modest backdrop is a Yelp-reviewed, well-known establishment? (Other Yelp reviewers also mentioned this fame). Next thing we knew on this trip, Yanness from the hotel also mentioned CKK as THE eating establishment EVERYONE has to put on their bucket list. So, having scouted it out before hand (no more than a 20-min. leisurely walk from Royal Park, most of it through AC-cooled malls even in the summer), and observing no signs of a cholera outbreak in the vicinity, we decided this was the year!
We dined late: after 9 p.m., which meant no wait for a table. You can order from the menu, which is in English and Chinese, as well as from the various boards/pictures (Chinese only) that surround the dining area. We started reading the menu and looking around when they brought our bowls, glasses etc., and I went "Uh-oh!"
First, let me say that I've not been diagnosed with mysophobia; truth be known, I've even stretched or outright violated the 5-second rule (albeit not at a Yelp event - yet). But when I saw chunky food particles on those plastic cups they gave us as glasses, I almost got cold feet. There's no reason for that - CKK, like most DPDs, are so lacking in infrastructure that they can't (or can't be bothered to) do dishes. Instead, all the plates and cups are dumped in huge drums (within sight of many tables - bon appetit!). Presumably these are then washed, somewhere, at the end of the night. Well, they must not have done a good job hosing down our batch. For once, I didn't make fun of the stupid ritual HKG diners have of "washing" their plates and utensils before dining (they bring a jug of hot water and a bowl to hold the water used for rinsing, but of course that 'hot' water is positively ineffective in killing any germs).
On to the food: they were out of a couple of their signature dishes. We ordered 5 dishes: my fave was the duck breast in flowered chives - so smoky was the meat it would give you lung cancer even upon a whiff - and sinfully, defiantly salty. Others liked the clams in some kind of weird watery broth. While the clams were plentiful, I found the sugary taste non-descript, and would have filed it under "failed experiment" if I'd prepared it. The "tung choi" ("straw" vegetables, since the stems are hollow) had some life in it, but it was absent the "ma lai tsaan" flavor, which was how we ordered it. The tofu/fish hot pot was also generous, but nothing out of the ordinary. Yes we ordered a bit too much, but the fact that we had to struggle to not leave food behind spoke more to how little our appetites were stimulated.
So back to my friend Kay, whose motto is "don't listen to the hype - trust your taste buds". I'd have to say I came away disappointed. Even with the reasonable prices (by no means dirty-cheap, though), the 'OK' food in general (alright - we didn't get to try their famous wasabi chicken, or those mango bites, since they were out, and who knows if they wouldn't have added a star or two by themselves), I don't know that I'd return or recommend. At the risk of sounding squeamish, the trade-off just didn't work in their favor. I'm not off ALL DPDs by any means - in fact, the one next door, not nearly as busy, had some really good-looking seafood dishes going.
Next time. read more