Traveling for a project in Comalcalco, Tobasco, MX, I was searching for the local food and was accompanied here by our local guide, a friend of my business partner. The location is a bit remote, but then again this entire region of Mexico is kind of off the grid. These are the places that I seek and enjoy with a passion. Yokok'ux really fit the bill.
Let's begin by introducing the owner, Vianey Rodriguez Torres. Vianey identifies as Chontal Maya, a Maya people of the Mexican state of Tabasco. The sustainment and promotion of her culture is her passion so she will sit with you and talk passionately about all things local, indigenous, and Mayan. She has taken local traditional foods and made them available to travelers and locals alike. Make reservations if you want to insure a seat.
I had probably the two most local and indigenous dishes available. First, the main dish, fire grilled Pejelegarto. In English it is a subspecies of Gar, likely Tropical Gar. Due to the region and size. The fish species is one of the oldest living species of any living thing at over 100 million years old! There are a few characteristics unique to this fish that give it the ability to survive, but my guess is that the key is that its eggs are poisonous so that predators avoid eating them. This is a great way to insure your young survive their most vulnerable stage in life.
The flesh is firm and rich, not very fishy if fresh. Also, bones are not present within the flesh making it easy to enjoy in good size bites or in soups, tacos, or Ceviche as well as eating the fish whole.
To wash this dish down I had to try the (very guarded) Warapo, which is made only by the local elders from made from Palo Boracho (drunken wood) or fermented wood that is also smoked and mixed with water, and Panela (local unrefined cane sugar) and served in a traditional clay mug. Only the local elders are allowed to make this drink and they happened to agree to produce it for Vianey probably because she is such an ambassador for the culture. This may be the only restaurant where a foreigner can buy this drink. That said, it tastes like a fermented fruit juice. If you have ever tried Pulque, it has a similar flavor but without the sliminess you get from Pulque which is like cactus juice made from heart of agave.
This was a great experience and a great find! Thank you to my guides and to Vianey! read more