I have a feeling we are not in Kansas anymore, Toto. And by Kansas I mean L.A.! Something is definitely up... the waiters are not wannabe actors with screenplays in their pockets, no unnatural plastic-surgery smiles in sight or showbiz talk within earshot. The food is not arranged in gravity-defying stacks or decorated with colorful squiggles that would make Jackson Pollock bust a nut. There are no framed Jonathan Gold reviews hanging above the cash register and the chef is not a celebrity with a book deal and a TV show. How is this even possible? Through the open windows, a cool valley breeze sneaks in, ruffling the sheer curtains, accompanied by the sound of distant Church bells. The food is aromatic and delicious, all around me friendly faces and rythmic chatter punctuated by ciaos. Rejoice my dear Silverettes, your favorite food-critic is bringing you his first-ever review from Italy! It's juicy, flavorful and completely free... dig in! Chronicling the steps that brought my derriere unto this comfy restaurant chair would be an odyssey, so it's best you simply accept the fact that the Silver-man is dining in a minuscule Italian town, with stupefied faces and a tinge of jealousy! Wedged between the Mediterranean sea and the Maritime Alps, Carasco is just a few scattered homes on the banks of the Entella river, overgrown with reeds and sliced by old Roman bridges. The green hillsides are steep and terraced, covered with olive trees, vineyards and plots of sweet basil. In other words, the typical Ligurian landscape, northwestern Italy to be exact! I found Trattoria Settembrin through my infallible network... it never disappoints! Barely got over the jet-lag and I was trattoria-bound! An incredible mixture of aromas welcomed me to the joint. Faster than it takes a politician to accept a bribe, Signor Silverini is seated with a menu in hand. This is no accident since - like most American Indians - I had a reservation! All around me, happy Italians, smiling, eating and talking about food with excitement and knowledge... three generations of gourmands in one place! You won't find a kids menu at Trattoria Settembrin, no tater-fuckin-tots; the little mouths here are fed exactly the same great foods as the large ones! In this case we are talking herbs-filled fresh ravioli in a wild boar ragù, home-made Tagliolini noodles with fresh Porcini mushrooms, Pansoti (local filled pasta) with creamy walnut sauce and - naturally - Trenette with Genoese Pesto, the local piece-de-resistance! You may think "hey I've had Pesto in Santa Monica" no you haven't! This is the real deal boys, right in the middle of its birthplace! In this area Pesto is sacred stuff, like mullets to rednecks. The local basil is a micro-breed, pale, delicate and sweet, not at all like the vile minty weed you find in Socal! The plants are uprooted while still baby-leafed and tender, it takes many square yards of the green stuff to make the wonderful sauce in your plate! No fillers, no additives, just local basil, delicate pine nuts, Parmigiano Reggiano and Pecorino Sardo cheeses, Ligurian extra-virgin olive oil, a pinch of coarse sea salt, a bit of fresh garlic and very capable Ligurian hands. This green-gold will make you so happy, it'll turn your trousers into a circus tent! You know me, right? Faster than it takes a hooker to drop her panties, I am stuffing my lie-maker with a generous portion of heavenly Trenette al Pesto followed by an excellent stewed rabbit Ligurian style, with potatoes and black olives! Local Vermentino wine flows with such vigor, it makes the nearby river jealous! Since I am still hungry, I also tackle a large serving of hand-made Tagliolini pasta with fresh porcini mushrooms... don't judge! Porcini are in season and I am a very weak man! As aromatic trays of Italian Mixed Fry (Fritto Misto all' Italiana) land on nearby tables, I finally finish my wine and raise the white flag to signal unconditional surrender! I'll have to come back another time to do justice to Trattoria Settembrin's menu! For the time being, I'll have some espresso and stretch my stilts along the Entella river to kick-start digestion. Ciao! read more

Trattoria Settembrin - Excellent Ligurian lunch ! - Carasco, GE