This is the stuff movies are made of... a remote fishing island with nary a car in sight... picturesque scenery with ferry boats as transportation... quirky townsfolk in a village of yesteryear with gravestones in backyard marshes. Let the story unfold...
A visit to Tangier Island has been on my "to do" list for years! Due to its rapid erosion, some experts say the island may not be around much longer, so I thought I'd better make the trip before the island sinks into the Chesapeake's abyss. I'm not a fan of boats or open water bodies, hence I'd been apprehensive to hop the ferry boat over the Chesapeake Bay towards Tangier. But I finally mustered up the nerve and boarded the Chesapeake Breeze ferry. The ride wasn't bad at all! As a precaution, Hubby and I used some essential oils provided at the dock store to prevent motion sickness. Naught to fear, all was well!
From Reedville in the Northern Neck, it took approximately 1 1/2 hours to reach Tangier Island which is set upon the Eastern Shore between Virginia and Maryland. Upon approaching the shore, it was obvious this little island is a true fisherman's village. We docked in a marina and disembarked on one of several piers surrounded by rows of crab baskets. Once on land, we were greeted by a row of golf cart guides, known as Tangier taxis, asking if we wanted a tour of the island. Yes please! Tourism is second to crabbing and fishing as the island's source of income. The tour took a mere 15 minutes and costs $5. The island is about 3 miles long and 1 mile wide so you can see why the tour was a short one!
We coasted on the main road that loops around the island while our informative, and not a little bit robotic, guide delineated facts and figures about this "floating village". With a population of about 400, she explained that there are only about a dozen cars on the island and most people travel by bicycle, moped, or golf cart or simply hoof it. We crossed several foot bridges on our tour which went over the marshy, saturated wetlands. Our guide narrated some island history and waved at the few points of interest: the tiny post office, one school (classes may have as few as 6 students each), the medical building (a doctor visits the island twice a week but they have 3 nurses on the island), the church, the 4 gift shops, the 2 B&Bs, the handful of restaurants (maybe 5?) and the Tangier Island History Museum. There's one policeman, no jail, no crime to speak of. Many family back yards contain grave stones and there are tombs all over the island due to lack of burial land.
After the tour was walked the island ourselves to get a closer look at our surroundings. Because the water has inundated the land, many homes and businesses have makeshift bridges or wide plank boards on their soggy lawns to gain access from the house to the shed or the street. Most of the structures here are weather-beaten and worn and some are dilapidated. It's as if the whole
town could use a coat of paint! But the buildings still stand as a testament to this island's fight for survival.
We witnessed some beautiful wildlife. Beautiful herons and egrets stood in the marshes. Osprey nests sat on pylons. We saw flocks of barn swallows and other birds. Crabs and sea life flourished. Butterflies danced around us. It was peaceful, lush and serene. We passed several fishermen casting their rods in the many surrounding inlets as walked along the shore observing the crabbing and oyster boats. The water tower can be seen from anywhere on the island.
Happy to support the tourism trade, we visited all the gift and souvenir shops and bought some jackets for the ferry ride home. We also paid a visit to the museum which gave an in depth overview of the island's colorful history including tales of Captain John Smith, Indians, and the War of 1812. We stocked up on books and post cards of Tangier.
We took the ferryman's advice and went to lunch at one of the restaurants that served crab cakes. He suggested we not leave the island before trying this famous favorite food of the locals. Fisherman's Corner was a cute little no fuss diner that fit the bill. My hubby said they were some of the best crab cakes he'd ever had! Afterwards we meandered over to Four Brothers to grab a soft serve cone and chill for a spell.
I felt like time traveler in this town! We couldn't get cell service, and didn't see anyone tied to their phones which was refreshing. Here you could really live in the moment. Soon enough the ferry came to take us back to "civilization". I can hardly imagine what it would be like living day to day in this isolated environment but I was glad to capture a glimpse of this unique floating wonder. It was an experience that I will not soon forget! If you get a chance to visit, go before it melts into obscurity. Pan out. And scene... read more