After sailing the Tasman Sea for two days and cruising Milford Sound, our first land excursion in New Zealand started with a round-trip scenic train ride from Port Chalmers to Pukerangi (Middlemarch) through the Taieri Gorge. We boarded the train at the port, just a few steps from our docked cruise ship at Port Chalmers, and rode past the town of Dunedin and several other smaller towns. We were prepared to see flocks of sheep, as we've always been told that there are more sheep than humans living in New Zealand, but as we rode past the town and neighborhoods, we barely saw any sheep; instead, we saw cattle!
The train tour took us through the rugged South Island terrain where we saw deep canyons carved by the Taieri River, negotiated very narrow tunnels (original tunneling done by explosives and shovels) where it seemed as though there was only a 6" clearance on both sides for the train cars to pass through, and dramatic viaducts. The tour guide commented about the "blasting holes" along a stretch of the mountain sides as the laborers made way for the railway and below, along the river, were gold prospectors had staked their claims and mines. He also mentioned the wild-growing New Zealand tea trees known as "Mānuka and Kānuka" shrub-trees, native kauri (one of the world's largest and most ancient) trees, New Zealand Christmas trees or "Pōhutukawa", and many more native evergreens in the forests. The tour guide also commented about the Monterey pine trees forming the planted and harvestable forest.
When we reached Pukerangi (Middlemarch) station, we deboarded the train. We stretched our legs walking around a small open market with local vendors selling edibles, handmade wool accessories, and quilted items. At the same time, the locomotive did a reverse slide to pull the train back into Dunedin. The clean, brisk, and fresh air at Pukerangi was exhilarating, and we almost didn't want to leave this remote station and "off-the-grid" location. We only saw ONE house near the station, surrounded by open plains, rolling hills, and views of New Zealand's Southern Alps. It may have taken us 2 - 2.25 hours to reach Pukerangi, but we barely noticed the time as the landscapes and forests enthralled us.
During the train ride, we were served a box lunch and a bottle of water. The train stewardess commented that they also have a pantry car, or snack car, where one could purchase more snacks or beverages if needed.
We returned to the beautiful and historic Dunedin Train Station around 2:30 pm, which, according to the train timetable, was accurate. The round trip took us around 5 to 5.5 hours. After which, we spent some time browsing around the town of Dunedin and having a wonderful lunch of Bluff oysters and fish and chips. read more