Paul Sullivan's tour of Prenzlauerberg "Beyond the Clichés"/"Beyond Kollwitzplatz" was so…read moreinteresting, relaxed, and enjoyable (an embodiment of the man himself!) that I even forgot the rain on this gray Sunday. Paul is affable and easy-mannered, as well as a font of knowledge about Berlin in seemingly all periods of its tumultuous history--from the 17th century to the present day. Walking around the neighborhood with him is my version of heaven: a casual stroll with a historical expert to drag you into Innenhöfe and explain the bullet holes, or point out the best hummus restaurant in the area, contextualizing everything in terms of Berlin's very particular history. At the start Paul asked each of us in the group about where we're from and whether we are residents or visitors, for the purpose of pitching his tour at the right level; and as a tour guide myself, I was in awe of his ability to walk the line between deep historical detail for those in the know and basic facts for neophytes. That's tough to do. The pacing was superb, the atmosphere friendly, you can ask questions or just lay back and watch--it really could not be improved in any way. I can hardly wait for the next tour: shall it be the Wall, Alexplatz, or Berlin's cemeteries? It hardly matters--at 20€ for two hours, they're a bargain; I'll do them all!