Easily overlooked by tourists (and slightly out of the old centre), the "Scots Church of St Jacob" is a stunning example of Romanesque architecture and a wonderfully quiet and spiritual counterpoint to the busy cathedral just 5 minutes' walk away.
The name is, at first sight, rather odd: the church was founded as an Abbey by Irish monks. This reflects the fact that the word 'Scoti' was used by Roman authors to describe Gaelic tribes, whether from Ireland or what is now Scotland - the migrations of which in the Dark Ages were quite complex. But suffice to say that, in this case, the monks hailed from Ireland.
An earlier Church to the South was established around 1070 but soon proved too small, and the present site was acquired around 1100 and a new Church dedicated in 1120. This was further enlarged around 1150-1185; only the east end (apse and towers) of the original church survives, the nave, Western transept and celebrated North portal dating from the later rebuilding.
The monastery remained under Irish control until the Scottish reformation, when it was transferred by the Pope to Scottish monks: no less a figure than Mary, Queen of Scots sought monks from the Abbey for missionary work in Scotland.
The church takes the form of a long, narrow nave with aisles, an apsed sanctuary flanked by aisle chapels, and a west transept. Unusually, the twin towers are at the eastern end.
The north portal is a celebrated example of Romanesque architecture in Germany, but the meaning of its decoration has been long debated. As well as Christ and rows of seated apostles, it features a wonderful array of beasts (some real and some fantastical) including a crocodile, a mermaid entwined with a mer-man, and griffin-like winged animals, a dragon eating a lion and many more - all surrounded by classic Celtic interlaced decoration.
The downside is that the portal is protected by the ugliest modern glazed canopy imaginable - and it needs a serious clean.
Back inside however, the rhythmic pattern of rounded nave arcades of pale stone have exquisite Romanesque capitals and lead the eye effortlessly to the high altar. The effect is sublime. read more