Ronal Reagan, Vinnie Jones, Jordan, Rebecca Romero. I should really like these people (okay, maybe not Jordan), but I don't. Whereas others may see them as inspirational role models, I see them as a kick in the teeth for The Every Man. We spend our lives trying to be competent in one area, whilst these Demigods get to the pinnacle of their profession before quitting for another, which they duly get to the top of. Call it jealously at their drive and obvious talent if you may, but I still don't like it. It makes me sick. The pesky show-offs.
For this reason I should have disliked Poppy Red. Not happy with being the best bar in Birmingham's Arcadian Centre, Poppy Red have decided that they are going to start taking grub seriously, plumping well above the heights that any bar nearby deserves to. It would hard not be cynical, this is the sort of thing that all bars try once in their life, but nearly all fail. It makes you wish they'd stick to doing what they do best, which is making drunk people dance.
But they're cleverer than most, this lot. They've succeeded where others have failed by never losing sight of the customer, whilst always remembering that prime ingredients are the key to great tasting food. A winter salad containing dense, earthy black pudding was enhanced by a lightly poached egg with an almost red yolk that only the freest of free range hens could muster, whilst the braised red cabbage that accompanied the slow cooked pork belly was bursting with vivid flavours. The stilton sauce that came with the button mushrooms was declared dreamy by my herbivorous girlfriend, a comment not once directed at her long serving partner. Typical. Four of us came to eat, eight dishes in total, and not one mutter of disapproval amongst us.
Fine dining it is not, but the cooking here is honest and without pretence, and deserves support. The flavours are big and hearty, the service friendly and efficient, and it's still a very affordable place to eat. You really have to admire them for what is coming out of the pass. It would be easy to lie back during the day and just rely on the evenings bar takings, but Poppy Red want more than that. I never thought I liked a show-off, but this one has won me right over. read more