When we first started coming here I was sleep-walking most of the time. You know your life has changed too dramatically to really contemplate (in fact contemplation is no longer something you can really contemplate) when you find yourself walking around the Phoenix Park at around 8.30 in the morning on a Sunday, and it feels as if the day is half over (despite clear evidence to the contrary), simply because otherwise how could you already have been up for so long? And, no, you're not taking a shortcut on your way home from an all-night party.
It's likely that if you instantly recognise this scenario you have now or have in the past had small children. Of the non-sleeping variety. Their day begins at anything from 5am in summer, when they're at their liveliest. By 7am, having imbibed your third coffee, you're running short of entertainment ideas. By 9 you've already been in the park for some time. You feel deep palpable relief when the cafe opens and you can rest your weary limbs for a while and weep quietly into your cup as your kid(s) finally drop off for a nap.
Roll the clock forward a few years and this is still a regular haunt for us though thankfully much later in the morning. It will inevitably be teeming with small kids and the little maze is a brilliant distraction for them, though unfortunately it's too short for them to ever get truly lost in.
The surroundings are just beautiful and on a summer's day it is the ideal outdoor spot - enclosed, balmy, with picnic benches, and a great cafe. Though the latter is usually way too busy with a long queue so be prepared. In fairness the food is really good, and the cakes better. Cleverly they've recently opened a 'Coffee Shack' outside, handy if you don't want food and don't have 20 minutes to spare standing in line.
There's an amazing sprawling tree which small kids (and bigger ones) can entertain themselves in for ages; a magical space that is more fun and definitely less hassle than a playground. On which, there's one of those too, round the back. Plus a lovely restored old walled garden (check mother-in-law box) which supplies veg to the cafe when in season.
I suppose I should know something at this stage about the actual visitors centre, and maybe some day I will, but to date this hasn't been our reason to come here. But as you can tell, you don't need any reason other than enjoying the outdoors and passing time. And when you have small insomniacal kids, you know all about the need for that. read more