One of my favorite places in Italy is hidden in small quiet town of Solferino... It is one of those towns that sun-basking in lazy afternoon sun, with shadows of old trees stretching over the road, and colorful buildings with intricate balconies line the main street.
From the central town square, there is a long, unpaved, cypress-lined lane that leads though the cemetery and to the Charnel-chapel, Ossario di Solferino. Few graves and obelisks along the way definitely worth looking and admiring - snakes, and roses, and statues... Take your time, walk in cypress shadows and enjoy it.
The main doors of Charnell-house, old, with quality woodwork and windows, also a stopping point.
I feel like I need to explain few things if you are not familiar with our path of travels.
What is Charnel-house? Usually it is a Cemetery church with Ossuary or Ossario, bone-storage. Charnel-house name comes from Middle French charnel ("relating to flesh"), from Late Latin carnāle ("graveyard"), from Latin carnālis ("flesh"), or from Medieval Latin carnārium ("place of flesh and bones"). And an Ossuary is a "chest, box, building, well, or site made to serve as the final resting place of human skeletal remains".
Most of the times beautifully decorated and arranged in macabre displays, Ossuaries are very common throughout Europe.
There is something about this town, and Ossario.
It is rarely visited, and experience standing there inside, just two of us alone, is very peaceful - almost surreal.
Under impressive main dome, there are cabinets of skulls, with large cross standing in front of it. With sunlight sneaking through dome windows it is very, very beautiful. Woodwork of the cabinets is exquisite, and so as architecture of this space.
To the right, there is a prep room with shelves and skeletons, and to the left, bone room with two skeletons standing in the middle. Both are gated, but with good view. Two more crosses mark the entrance to these areas.
The quietness and the beauty of it is what I will remember the most about this place.
1413 skulls and countless bones.
Peace.
(While in town, make sure to eat with locals and check out Fortress on top of the hill, views are amazing from there.) read more