After visiting the Altamira Caves one recent afternoon, Gayle and I weren't quite ready to return to Santillana del Mar. We decided that a scenic drive along the Atlantic Coast would be nice. That excursion would take us to both Comillas and San Vicente de la Barquera. Both are also along the Northern Route of the Camino de Santiago, but I found the signage to be sketchy. More interesting was traffic control within the small villages along the way. Instead of speed bumps, there were a series of flashing yellow lights and "fake" red lights that forced you to slow down. Very effective. One thing to keep in mind is that we were here in October, which is off season. Hence, it was pretty quiet in these parts. We found that especially true in San Vicente de la Barquera, where after the long bridge and views of the Harbor and Camino, we were quickly on our way back. Comillas was quiet too. We walked along the deserted beach and were particularly taken with the Cemetery, which contained various Art Nouveau markers and an immense Angel statue by eminent Catalan sculptor Josep Llimona. What we missed were cobbled streets and squares with ancestral houses, towers and Modernist style buildings. That includes "El Capricho" by Antoni Gaudí, Sobrellano Palace, a Neo-Gothic construction; and the Pontifical University, which dominates the Village. And who knew that you could find an island of Catalan culture in the middle of Cantabria? read more

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