An absolutely first rate historic restoration cafe…read more
Buenos Aires Cafes of the early twentieth century were legendary places.
Both the Argentine government and appreciative entrepreneurs have been working to save these great old bars and bodegones.
El Federal is one of five historic restaurants that are being run by one company that has the goal of saving them all.
The job that has been done on El Federal is absolutely top of the line.
This is an outstanding place to eat, an outstanding place to drink and an outstanding room to sit in.
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El Federal is in San Telmo - already one of the most historic and evocative neighborhoods in Buenos Aires.
El Federal takes pride in being a vermutaria.
They make their own house vermouth.
I have been grabbing house vermouth everywhere I can get it.
If you want a Malbec, they got plenty of those too.
But to my mind, nothing tastes better or is more refreshing than a good Argentine vermouth.
The absolute best vermouth in Buenos Aires that I have found so far is at the Cafe San Juan, also in San Telmo.
But the vermouth at El Federal is a formidable number two.
It is better than ANY house vermouth I have had in Spain, ANY commercial vermouth I have had in the U.S., Spain or Argentina and any of my more limited tastings in Italy.
A number two vermouth in a long run of vermouth tastings all over the world?
You want to have this vermouth.
* * *
How is the food?
Outstanding!
1) Big beautiful absolutely marvelous milanesas.
Reminder - a meat dish with tomato sauce on top is generally going to be better in Argentina than in the U.S. because their tomatoes are better so their tomato sauce is better.
The beef is better too, so I had my milanesa with nalga which is rump steak.
Chicken in Buenos Aires generally does not impress, but beef is absolutely positively out of this world.
Perfect meat? Perfect tomato sauce? Fine cheese and a great great kitchen?
Sign me up!
2) The best french fries I have had in Buenos Aires.
The Portenos serves french fries with everything.
Argentine french fries are no great shakes.
El Chori makes fantastic homemade ketchup to die for ...
But the base french fries themselves are no thrill.
El Federal makes an outstanding addictive french fry.
I could have just drunk vermouth and eaten french fries for lunch and I would have been a happy boy.
3) A super filling super yummy Tortilla with potatoes and onions.
That dish is fine in a lot of places, but it is first rate here.
4) A totally tremendous fig and brie dessert.
I have been served a lot of fig this and fig that in Buenos Aires.
Often the fig dishes are disappointments.
THIS fig dish is stellar.
The figs are small but first rate and super-tasty.
The brie is mild - but it goes with the figs wonderfully.
The house makes a compote syrup to go over the duo.
They don't put on much, but the fig compote syrup is what takes the dish and sends it over the roof.
This is an adult dessert - a combination of sweet and savory as opposed to a dulce de leche sugar pigout.
This combination of sweet and savory is magical.
* * *
If you are in Buenos Aires for any length of time,
You absolutely positively want to get to El Federal.
But lets imagine this is a short trip and you have a very limited number of days.
One neighborhood has two of the best kitchens in the city and the two best vermouths in the world.
And it is a cute historic neighborhood to boot with great markets and live tango performances?
I for sure would do both.
I would go to San Telmo for the day,
Have an early meal at El Federal which opens early, closes late and has super flexible hours.
No matter what time of day it was, I would drink vermouth.
Go messing around San Telmo seeing this and seeing that.
On a day when they had their fairs I bought some wonderful artisanal scarves at a good price.
(There is junk to be had there too. Use your judgment.)
Avoid the tourist restaurants in the indoor mercado, and the overpriced tourist stuff for sale there.
Then dinner and more vermouth at the Cafe San Juan.
You have to reserve for the Cafe San Juan.
You won't have a problem getting into El Federal.
Amazing eating, the two best vermouths in the world, and a lot of fun in the afternoon.
What's not to like?