Just so we're clear, I wasn't expecting the Paris Catacombs here. I'd done some research and knew…read morethat this was a small museum without a lot of exhibits, so my expectations were managed. Even so, we were kind of surprised by how little there was to see here. Many reviews mention that the entrance is hard to find, but we didn't think it was that difficult -- however, it's important to note that you'll be looking for a gate in the middle of the sidewalk with stairs leading down (like a subway station), not a building. There are actually two entrances and we found the closed, chained one first -- the actual entrance will have a green museum sign, as pictured. Once you go downstairs, you're pretty much right there. There is an open area off to one side with a series of vaulted stone arches, and you can walk through the empty room looking at the layers of stone and brick that made up the foundations. But you won't find any gravestones, plaques, or artifacts, let alone any grisly skeletal displays -- it's literally an empty room. It looks as though the central area is left open so that they can have musical performances, and one of the entrances seemed to have a program of upcoming choral and classical music events, which is probably a neat experience. Strangely, it looks like the crypt used to have a lot more as far as signs, exhibits, art, and artifacts. If you look up the circa-2011 YouTube video tour by Susana Provenza, you'll see plenty of explanatory signs and displays around the crypt, but none of those were there when we visited. Honestly, watching this video might be as much of a visit as you need, because it doesn't look like that today. Admission is inexpensive and their bathrooms are acceptable, so if you feel like spending a couple of bucks for a quick rest stop, the crypt won't take up much time. But don't feel bad if you don't get around to seeing this "museum."

One thing I liked about art museums in Argentina is that they tended not to be enormous,…read moreLouvre-sized all-day slogfests (and priced accordingly high). The biggest thing about the Museo Superior de Bellas Artes Evita Palacio Ferreyra is its name! You can spend a couple of hours here, see it all, and not have to devote an entire day. In fact, I suggest you get the combined ticket that also gets you into the Caraffa -- not because it's such a huge savings, but because they're very close to each other, manageably sized, and you'll still have time to do other things. Quick history lesson: the Palacio is an early-20th-century mansion built for Dr. Martín Ferreyra, a prominent local surgeon as well the owner of limestone quarries and the then-biggest lime factory in Argentina. The mansion was expropriated by the governor in 2005 and subjected to a controversial renovation that some feel ruined the historic building. Although it was subsequently renamed the Evita Fine Arts Museum, it really doesn't have any connection to Evita Peron, nor should it be confused with the Museo Evita in Buenos Aires. With that background in mind, you can appreciate the lavish grandeur of the main staircase in the central lobby, and the eye-popping green lattice trim in the Winter Garden gallery. Even if you don't want to eat in the museum cafe, you should peek in and admire the elaborate carved and painted details on the walls and ceilings (some of which you can see in photos here). The collection focuses on Argentine and South American artists. Apparently they have a Picasso and Goya, but I don't remember seeing those on our visit. In addition to their permanent exhibition, there are also temporary exhibitions and a photographic exhibit on the history and remodel of the building itself. There was no gift shop that I saw, but there is a bar/restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. Overall, while there might not be world-class art masterpieces here, it's an interesting local landmark worth visiting for the building as well as the art collection. I wouldn't call it a must-see for every visitor, but art and architecture lovers would enjoy spending a couple of hours at the Palacio Ferreyra.

Ehhh... the Paseo del Buen Pastor was talked up pretty highly in our Lonely Planet guidebook, but I…read morethought it was just OK. Maybe we caught it at a less exciting time when there wasn't much going on, but it wasn't the happening nightlife spot that our book made it out to be. By day, the Paseo is an attractive building with covered outdoor walkways that have free art exhibitions. (Apparently it was a women's prison for about a century before being updated into a cultural space.) When we were there, it was a contemporary photography exhibit by local photographers. The pictures were interesting, but they were so cheaply mounted (I assume because of weather exposure) that the overall effect was a little cheesy and amateurish. There seems to be an indoor art/event space, but it was closed off and didn't appear to have anything going on. There are several pieces of cool outdoor art -- our favorite incorporated the illusion of a swimmer's "reflection" on the surface of the decorative pool. Outdoor benches and seating are all over, and it's a nice spot to take a break in the shade and rest for a bit. At night, the building is colorfully lit and the square livens up. People stroll through, walk their dogs or let them play off-leash, and couples and groups sit everywhere to hang out. We sat for a while and enjoyed the people-watching. There were a few buskers working the crowd and some kids trying aggressively to sell trinkets, but overall the atmosphere was pleasant and felt safe. There just wasn't as much going on as I'd expected. Overall, a nice stop as you're walking around Cordoba and worth checking to see if there are any interesting exhibits or performances happening, but not a must-see.

The Museo Emilio Caraffa is a fine arts museum established by the Province of Cordoba, and located…read moreon the edge of Sarmiento Park. It's close to the Palacio Ferreyra and you can get a combined ticket for both museums if you start at the Palacio Ferreyra, which I recommend. Each museum takes 1-2 hours to go through, so you can easily see both in an afternoon. The Caraffa has mostly modern and contemporary art, with a focus on Argentine artists. When we were there in February 2015, the main exhibit was a 100-year retrospective of the museum's history, with a collection of its best-known artworks. Another exhibit featured a series of iconic, brightly colored sculptures called "La Fiesta Secreta." There was also an exhibit that seemed to be a province-wide competition of printmakers and lithographers, ranging widely in subject matter, skill level, and media. My favorite part about this museum is actually the stairs! The stairs between levels are black and the handrails and undersides are covered in black faux fur, while the walls are a bright lime green. I don't know whether it's art or just a fun design choice, but I enjoyed that they took a functional part of the museum and made it cool and eye-catching. The bathrooms are just OK (the soap in the ladies' room was an empty soda bottle refilled with pink soap and a hole cut in the lid), but they do at least have a whole row of stalls. There's a pretty decent gift shop that has inexpensive art postcards and books, but no English-language books that I saw. Some of the galleries felt empty or underused, and the exhibits that had multimedia videos played the audio at a deafeningly loud volume that didn't encourage us to stay there too long. But it's a large, interesting space and your experience will probably depend on which specific exhibitions are there when you go. Overall, maybe not something to go out of your way for on its own, but as part of a combined museum day with the Palacio Ferreyra, it's worth a visit.