During my year stint living and loving Salzburg, Austria, this was the church I decided to attend…read moreeach Sunday for worship. Fashion and everyday dress in Europe is more formal than in the U.S. and in Salzburg, it's even more so. Being a sporadic church-goer throughout the year, it had to have been the grandeur of this place that motivated me to get up early each Sunday morning, dress my best and catch the StadtBus to church. An itinerary I miss until this day.
There has been a church on this site since the 8th century, which was rebuilt in the Romanesque era. A Gothic choir replaced the Romanesque choir in 1408-50; a slender Gothic tower was added in 1468-98.
The building served as a parish church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, until 1635. In 1670 the top of the church's tower had to be removed because the archbishop objected to it being higher than that of the cathedral. In 1866 it was restored in a Neo-Gothic style. The church interior received a Baroque makeover in the 18th century.
The Franziskanerkirche is an especially fascinating church to visit due to its unique mixture of architectural styles:
The Romanesque nave is still visible inside the church, and a 12th-century marble lion from that period is set into the pulpit steps.
The tall, well-lit Gothic choir (1408-50) is supported by slender purplish columns, which reach up to an elaborate rib vault.
The choir shelters nine chapels, each decorated in an elaborate Baroque style by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach in the 18th century. The easternmost chapel, behind the high altar, contains a winged marble altar of 1561 from the old cathedral. The high altar, also by Erlach, is an ornate creation of red marble and gold. The Madonna statue in the center predates the rest - it is a Late Gothic sculpture by Michael Pacher of Tyrol.
Christmas Eve. It was midnight mass that was the most powerful. The church was pitch black except for the light of thousands of candles lit everywhere throughout; casting shadows that appeared to dance across the ornate and towering ceiling. The combination of the resounding pipe organ and choir was intoxicating, as if my spirit was awoken and rising out of my chest. A profound moment and connection I will never forget.
O come, O come, Emmanuel
And ransom captive Israel
That mourns in lonely exile here
Until the Son of God appear
Rejoice! Rejoice! Emmanuel
Shall come to thee, O Israel.
Merry Christmas! May the Spirit of the season bring you much love and hope throughout the new year! Peace be yours!
