We were on our way to the bus station and wanted a snack for the journey. We stopped to pick up a…read morepane cunzato and the guy behind the counter could not have been friendlier. You can get it with either tuna or anchovies and he actually made it half/half so we could try both (anchovies is the winner). The sandwich was THE BOMB: perfectly dressed with olive oil, basil and oregano, a good shaving of Parmesan, sliced olives and tomatoes plus the fish. It's like having all of Sicily in a sandwich!

Tourist prices, sub-par cannoli with substance that here passes for pistachio but look more like…read moreradioactive green crushed beans.